Foie Gras Production in the United States: A Comprehensive Overview

Foie gras – the fattened liver of ducks (and historically geese) produced via force-feeding (gavage) – is a tiny niche of American agriculture. Only a handful of farms in the United States produce foie gras, and the industry here is minuscule compared to its French and European counterparts. As of 2025, there are only three to four active foie gras farms in the U.S., all small operations, plus a few historical producers that have since closed. In total, U.S. farms produce only a few hundred tons of foie gras per year – less than 1% of global foie gras output1. (For perspective, France alone produces well over 14,000 tons annually1 and accounts for ~64% of world production as of 2020.) U.S. foie gras farms collectively raise on the order of 400,000–450,000 ducks per year for foie gras2, versus tens of millions of birds in France and other countries34. Economic Footprint: The U.S. foie gras sector is estimated in the tens of millions of dollars of revenue – a drop in the bucket of the national poultry industry. For example, one major distributor (D’Artagnan, which supplies foie gras and other specialty meats) reported that foie gras accounted for about 18% of its $140 million annual sales (i.e. roughly $25 million)5. The two largest American foie gras farms (both in New York) employ roughly 400–500 workers combined67. Much of the product is sold to high-end restaurants in foodie markets like New York City, Chicago, Las Vegas, and San Francisco, as well as via gourmet retailers. Indeed, New York City alone has historically accounted for about one-third of U.S. foie gras sales for the New York farms58. With California and New York City both enacting foie gras bans in recent years (details below), American producers have faced significant revenue hits – after California’s ban took effect, national foie gras shipments fell by ~15%9. Distribution: Because of the small scale, U.S. foie gras production is fairly centralized. There are two large farms in Sullivan County, New York (in the Hudson Valley region) and a couple of much smaller artisanal farms (one in Minnesota and one in Louisiana). These farms typically slaughter ducks for foie gras and also sell the whole duck (breasts or “magret”, legs for confit, rendered duck fat, etc.). Distributors like D’Artagnan (founded in 1984 specifically to bring fresh foie gras to the U.S. market1011) play a key role in getting the product to restaurants nationwide. American foie gras is also available via mail order from the farms and specialty food websites. Notably, exports of U.S.-produced foie gras are minimal – the American output is mostly consumed domestically (and the U.S. itself also imports some foie gras products from France, Canada, and elsewhere). Global Context: By global standards, U.S. foie gras is a blip. In 2014 the U.S. produced only ~250 tons of foie gras (under 1% of world production)12. France, Hungary, Bulgaria, and parts of the EU dominate production and have deeply entrenched foie gras culinary traditions. In France foie gras is even protected as part of the “gastronomical heritage” of the country, and about 30,000 people work in that industry13. By contrast, foie gras farming in the U.S. began only in the 1980s and has never been widely adopted. All U.S. producers use ducks (usually Moulard ducks), not geese, for foie gras – in line with modern global practice (95%+ of foie gras worldwide now comes from ducks)1415. Moulard ducks (a Muscovy–Pekin hybrid) are preferred for their large liver and ease of handling (they are mute, flightless, and naturally lack a gag reflex)1416. Female ducklings, which don’t develop livers as large as males, are typically not used for foie gras; at least one U.S. farm ships surplus female ducklings overseas to be raised for meat instead1718. Legislative and Legal Challenges: Foie gras is highly controversial in the U.S. due to animal welfare concerns, and this has led to multiple legal battles. Force-feeding birds is outlawed in some jurisdictions – most prominently California, which passed a ban in 2004 (effective 2012) on both the production and sale of foie gras made from force-fed birds19. California’s ban survived years of court challenges and is currently in force (after the U.S. Supreme Court declined to overturn it in 2019)20. Chicago famously enacted a citywide ban on foie gras in 2006, only to repeal it two years later after much ridicule (Mayor Daley dubbed it the “silliest law”)20. In 2019, New York City – one of the world’s biggest foie gras markets – passed a law to ban the sale of foie gras starting in 2022. The NYC ban has been fiercely fought by producers and is currently tied up in litigation: New York State’s agriculture department issued an injunction in late 2022, siding with farmers who argued the city exceeded its authority21. As of 2024, the NYC foie gras ban was stayed on procedural grounds21, allowing sales to continue pending further court review. In addition, smaller jurisdictions are following suit (for example, in 2025 the town of Brookline, MA became the first in Massachusetts to ban foie gras sales22). The foie gras industry’s response to these challenges has largely been through legal action rather than public relations – for instance, the New York farms formed the “Catskill Foie Gras Collective” (along with a French supplier) to sue New York City23, arguing procedural and state-law grounds to overturn the ban. Producers contend that their practices are humane and that bans will “decimate” local farm economies246, whereas animal welfare groups argue that force-feeding is intrinsically cruel. This debate remains intense. Polls in NYC showed strong public support (over 80%) for banning force-fed foie gras25, yet the producers have so far managed to delay or prevent some bans through the courts21. In summary, American foie gras farming persists as a small but controversial niche, concentrated in just a few locations. Below, we profile all the notable U.S. foie gras farms – past and present – with details on their location, status, output, ownership, history, and any legal or animal-welfare issues associated with each.

To frame the discussion, the table below lists the key foie gras farms in the United States, including those currently active and a notable historical operation that closed due to legislation: Farm Name Location Years of Operation Status Owners/Operators Production Volume Hudson Valley Foie Gras (HVFG) Ferndale, Sullivan County, New York 1985 – present26 Active Michael A. Ginor (co-founder & President); Izzy Yanay (co-founder & GM)27 ~300,000+ ducks per year (approx. 6,000/week)282 – the largest U.S. producer La Belle Farm Sullivan County, New York (near Ferndale) 1999 – present29 Active Saravia family (Sergio Saravia, President)297 ~130,000–180,000 ducks per year (second-largest producer)2930 Au Bon Canard Caledonia (Houston County), Minnesota 2000s – present (founded mid-2000s) Active (small-scale) Christian & Liz Gasset (founders; operated until 2023); Troy (new owner as of 2023)31 ~2,000 ducks per year (artisan farm)32 – very small scale, seasonal production Backwater Foie Gras Bush (St. Tammany Parish), Louisiana c. 2019 – present Active (small-scale) Ross McKnight (owner-founder)3334 Limited artisanal production (pasture-based; numbers not public, but far smaller than NY farms)2 Sonoma Foie Gras (Sonoma-Artisan Foie Gras) Near Modesto, California 1986 – 20123536 Closed (banned) Guillermo and Junny Gonzalez (owners)37 ~500,000 ducks/year at peak (c. 10,000 per week, comparable to HVFG)32 – ceased due to CA law19 (Table Notes: “Years of Operation” for active farms indicates founding year to present. Production volumes are approximate and based on reported figures; for small farms exact numbers are not disclosed. Sonoma Foie Gras ceased operating in July 2012 when California’s ban took effect.) Below are detailed profiles of each farm, including legal and welfare issues and other notable facts.

Location: Ferndale, New York – a rural part of Sullivan County in the Catskills. The farm sits on 200+ acres of land38 and is about a two-hour drive from NYC. Status: Active (as of 2025). Hudson Valley Foie Gras (often abbreviated HVFG) is the largest foie gras operation in the U.S. and continues to produce and sell foie gras and duck products nationwide. It markets itself as “the world’s premier foie gras producer”26. History & Ownership: Founded in 1985 by Michael Aeyal Ginor (a former financier turned gourmand) and Izrael “Izzy” Yanay (an Israeli-born duck breeder)27. Their venture, originally called Commonwealth Enterprises, was the first or second foie gras farm in U.S. history10. D’Artagnan, a gourmet meat distributor, signed on in 1984 to exclusively distribute their fresh foie gras and ducks, which until then were unavailable domestically in fresh form1011. Over 35+ years, HVFG grew into a vertically integrated duck farm and processing business. Michael Ginor remains President, and Izzy Yanay was long-time General Manager39. The farm was earlier known as New York State Foie Gras in some contexts40, but “Hudson Valley Foie Gras” became its primary brand. Production Volume: Approximately 300,000–350,000 ducks are raised and slaughtered per year at HVFG for foie gras4142. This equates to roughly 6,000 ducks per week being force-fed and processed on site28. (Each duck yields a foie gras liver typically weighing around 1-1.5 pounds.) HVFG alone produces the majority of all U.S.-made foie gras. Since its inception, the farm has produced well over 10 million ducks for foie gras43. Besides foie gras itself, the company sells duck breast (magret), confit, rendered duck fat, and other by-products, utilizing the “whole duck” in its business model4445. Animal Husbandry: HVFG raises Moulard ducks (a Muscovy–Pekin hybrid) which are unable to fly and are suited for foie gras production4647. The ducks are kept in indoor barns (the farm describes them as cage-free barns that protect from weather and predators48). For the final 2–3 weeks of life the ducks undergo gavage (force-feeding with corn mash via a tube) three times daily4950. HVFG has claimed its practices are humane and even offers tours to media and the public (with some restrictions) to showcase their operation51. However, animal welfare groups dispute these claims (see below). Legal and Regulatory Issues: Being the largest foie gras producer, HVFG has been at the center of virtually every legal battle over foie gras in the U.S.: New York City Ban: HVFG (together with La Belle Farm) fought the NYC sale ban passed in 2019. In hearings, HVFG’s reps testified about their production (noting 6,000 birds processed weekly and ~350 birds handled per worker per day)28. The farms argue the ban would devastate their business (NYC customers buy ~30–35% of their foie gras) and cost hundreds of jobs528. In 2022, the farms secured a state injunction blocking the NYC ban on the grounds that New York’s Department of Agriculture determined the city law improperly regulated farming21. As of 2024, the issue is still in court, with the ban not enforced pending further litigation. California Ban: California’s 2012 statewide ban on force-fed foie gras (both production and sales) directly affected HVFG’s ability to sell into that large market. HVFG joined a coalition of foie gras producers (including a Canadian group) in legal challenges. A federal court initially struck down the California sales ban in 2015, but that was overturned on appeal; ultimately the U.S. Supreme Court in 2019 let the ban stand20. Since then, HVFG cannot ship foie gras to California restaurants, though workarounds have included direct shipping to individual consumers (which the law arguably allows). Chicago Ban: When Chicago outlawed foie gras in 2006, HVFG similarly saw a market disappear. The ban was short-lived (repealed in 2008)20. During that time, some chefs staged foie gras “underground” dinners. Michael Ginor and other industry figures were vocal in ridiculing the ban, which helped pressure its repeal. Environmental and Labor Compliance: HVFG has faced at least one lawsuit by animal rights organizations over environmental issues – e.g. the Humane Society (HSUS) sued alleging Clean Water Act violations from duck waste runoff. In 2010, a federal judge dismissed that case, granting summary judgment to HVFG (indicating the farm satisfied the legal requirements)53. HVFG also came under scrutiny for labor practices in the 1990s (when the farm was called Commonwealth Enterprises, there were allegations of low pay for the difficult force-feeding job), but no major penalties are noted in public records. Animal Welfare Controversies: Hudson Valley Foie Gras has been a target of numerous animal welfare investigations. Undercover videos and reports by groups like PETA, Mercy for Animals, and Compassion Over Killing have documented suffering in HVFG’s facility5455. For example, a 2014 Mercy For Animals video showed workers “aggressively shoving metal feeding tubes” down ducks’ throats and revealed dead or dying ducks left in cages or tossed into trash bins5455. Ducks are kept in wire-floored pens; activists report that ducks pant and struggle to breathe due to enlarged livers, and some die before slaughter5657. An investigator noted the barns were littered with dead ducks, and live ducks had to see carcasses in trash cans nearby5558. These conditions starkly contradict the farm’s public claims of humane treatment. (HVFG counters that such investigations are cherry-picked or staged; they maintain that a healthy, non-stressed duck is needed to produce quality foie gras, so it’s in their interest to treat birds well.) Notably, because only male ducks are used, female ducklings are culled or exported at HVFG and similar farms. At HVFG, female ducklings are typically killed shortly after hatching (a common practice in foie gras and egg industries worldwide) or sent off-site (La Belle Farm has shipped females to the Caribbean for meat production17).Violations: To date, no U.S. foie gras farm (including HVFG) has been convicted of animal cruelty under state laws – largely because farmed poultry are exempted from many animal-cruelty statutes or because practices like gavage, while unpleasant, are not explicitly illegal in New York. However, footage from HVFG has led some veterinarians and officials to condemn the operation. Dr. Holly Cheever, DVM, testified that HVFG’s public tours omit the final 10–14 days of force-feeding because by then the birds are “too clearly ill” and that actual feeding sessions are much more frantic and harsh than what visitors see5960. This suggests HVFG has tried to manage its image while continuing standard intensive practices behind closed doors. Notable Facts: Hudson Valley FG is widely known among chefs – it essentially jump-started American foie gras cuisine in the late 20th century. By supplying fresh foie gras to top restaurants (via D’Artagnan) in the 1980s, it enabled dishes that were previously reliant on imported canned foie. The farm claims credit for helping shift fine dining trends (e.g. popularizing hot seared foie gras in the U.S., not just cold pâté)6162. HVFG has won over some chefs with its quality, but it’s also been the focal point of protests. Animal rights activists have picketed restaurants serving HVFG foie gras, and in one case an activist named Amber Canavan infiltrated HVFG in 2015, rescued two ducks, and later served 30 days in jail for trespass and theft – becoming a cause célèbre in the animal-rights community63. Despite the backlash, HVFG continues to operate and even diversified into chicken farming in recent years (though foie gras remains its core product)4864. In 2019, HVFG and La Belle formed a united front (the Catskill Foie Gras Collective) to defend their industry, illustrating how pivotal HVFG’s fate is to foie gras in the U.S.23.

Location: Sullivan County, New York – in the same general area (Ferndale) as Hudson Valley Foie Gras. La Belle Farm is just a few miles away, taking advantage of the region’s open land and proximity to NYC. Status: Active. La Belle Farm is the second-largest foie gras producer in the U.S. and a direct competitor/neighbor to Hudson Valley FG. It operates a 40+ acre duck farm with on-site processing. History & Ownership: La Belle Farm was founded in 1999 by the Saravia family, who emigrated from El Salvador29. Over four generations of family members have been involved. Sergio Saravia is the president and a public face of the company (he’s notably been outspoken during the NYC ban dispute)765. The farm supplies its sister company, Bella Bella Gourmet Foods, which distributes La Belle’s foie gras and duck products to restaurants and consumers6667. In two decades, La Belle grew to become one of only three foie gras farms in the U.S.29. Production Volume: As of recent reports, La Belle Farm produces on the order of 130,000 to 180,000 ducks per year for foie gras. The farm itself cited “over 182,000 ducks per year” in production29, while activist sources put the figure around 130k slaughtered annually68. (The difference could be due to different years or accounting methods, but in any case La Belle’s output is roughly half or a bit more than half of Hudson Valley’s.) This still makes La Belle a substantial producer – combined, the two NY farms process fewer than 450k ducks a year69. La Belle also cultivates its own feed (corn/soy) on nearby land to control feed quality70. Their foie gras is sold in multiple grades and styles (Grade A lobes, smaller “petite” lobes, slices, etc.)71. Like HVFG, La Belle utilizes the entire duck (breasts, legs, fat, etc.) and has USDA-inspected processing on site71. Practices: La Belle likewise raises Moulard ducks and employs force-feeding in the final stage. The farm emphasizes “traditional French methods” and claims to prioritize humane conditions (they highlight cage-free barns and say they hand-feed in small groups, though it’s unclear how this differs from standard gavage)72. One distinctive (and controversial) aspect: because female ducklings are not used for foie gras, La Belle ships day-old female ducklings to a farm in Trinidad (Caribbean) to be raised for meat17. This arrangement avoids killing the females outright, but it means the birds endure long transport at a day old – a practice animal advocates criticize as inhumane. Legal/Regulatory Issues: La Belle Farm has stood shoulder-to-shoulder with Hudson Valley FG in fighting legislative bans. In the NYC foie gras ban situation, Sergio Saravia of La Belle was quoted saying that without foie gras sales, their business model falls apart – “We need to sell the foie. ... If you don’t get a liver ... it’s impossible to meet overhead by selling every other part”73. He noted that foie gras (the “cash crop”) subsidizes the cost of raising the duck; without it, selling just duck meat wouldn’t be viable73. La Belle and HVFG jointly obtained the court injunction halting NYC’s ban in late 202221. The two farms share legal counsel and PR representation in this fight23. Unlike HVFG, La Belle hasn’t been directly targeted by environmental lawsuits on record, but it presumably faces the same regulatory oversight. There have been local complaints at times (some neighbors have raised concerns about waste or odor, according to news reports, but major violations haven’t been publicized). In California, La Belle as a New York company wasn’t directly affected by the production ban (they never had a farm there), but the California sales ban closed off a market for them, just as it did for HVFG. La Belle likely participated in amici or industry groups supporting the legal challenges to the CA ban, though HVFG was more prominently involved. Animal Welfare and Activism: La Belle Farm has been somewhat lower-profile than HVFG in activism circles, but it is not without scrutiny. Investigators and journalists who visited the two NY farms have sometimes noted that conditions are similar. Both farms keep ducks in group pens during gavage, not individual cages (individual cages were outlawed in EU foie gras farms and are not used in NY either). However, even group pens can be crowded and restrictive. Activist accounts describe the ducks at La Belle being subjected to the same force-feeding routine that causes distended livers and impaired mobility. There have been protests outside La Belle’s distributors and restaurants (for instance, animal rights groups have campaigned against Bella Bella Gourmet, their distribution arm, for selling foie gras). No specific citations of animal cruelty unique to La Belle have been documented in public records – any legal “violations” would be similar to HVFG’s (which is to say, the practice itself is seen as inherently cruel by critics, but it’s legal in NY). The farm asserts it constantly studies and improves methods to reduce stress on ducks (e.g. sending staff around the world to learn best practices)7475. It’s worth noting that La Belle’s management team includes immigrants who fled war-torn El Salvador; they sometimes frame their work ethic and resilience in terms of that personal history76. This human-interest angle has been used in media to counter the portrayal of foie gras farms as purely “cruel”; the Saravia family portrays pride in their farming craft. Notable Facts: La Belle Farm’s foie gras has a strong reputation among chefs, often noted for high quality. Some NYC chefs actually prefer one farm’s product over the other in blind tests, citing subtle differences in flavor or texture due to feed regimen or processing. La Belle has promoted that their foie gras “renders less fat” when cooked, implying a better yield and texture77. The farm also touts sustainability steps (like donating duck manure to local farmers for fertilizer)78. In 2022, La Belle and HVFG received a boost when the New York State Department of Agriculture sided with them against NYC’s ban, highlighting that the state considers foie gras a lawful “agricultural product”. This kind of backing was notable – essentially the state government intervened on behalf of two farming companies against a city animal-welfare law79. La Belle’s leadership in this fight has made Sergio Saravia something of a spokesperson for the U.S. foie gras industry, alongside Marcus Henley of HVFG. If NYC’s ban is ultimately defeated or overturned, it will be a significant legal precedent in La Belle’s favor. Conversely, if the ban is reinstated, it poses an existential threat to La Belle’s business model (as they themselves acknowledge). For now, La Belle Farm continues to operate, selling foie gras through Bella Bella Gourmet and other channels, and even offering farm tours to curious chefs and media under controlled circumstances.

Location: Caledonia, Minnesota – a small farming community in the southeast corner of Minnesota (Houston County), near the Mississippi River. The region’s rolling bluffs reminded the founder of the French countryside8081. Au Bon Canard is far from big cities, mainly supplying local and regional markets (Twin Cities and Upper Midwest). Status: Active (artisanal scale). Au Bon Canard (French for “The Good Duck”) is a tiny, farmstead foie gras producer known for its traditional methods. It was one of the only three foie gras farms in the U.S. during the 2000s and 2010s82. In 2023, the founding owners retired and passed the operation to a new local owner, but the farm continues to produce foie gras on a limited scale3183. History & Ownership: Founded in the mid-2000s by Christian Gasset and his wife Liz, who moved from southwest France to Minnesota. Christian Gasset is a French-born farmer who brought traditional foie gras techniques from the Périgord region of France84. The Gassets ran Au Bon Canard as a two-person operation (with occasional help at slaughter time)85. They emphasized a hands-on, humane approach – Christian personally tended the ducks through every stage. After roughly 15+ years of operation, in June 2023 Christian and Liz Gasset retired to France, handing over the farm to Troy and his wife Katie, a local young family who had been involved in the farm’s activities31. Troy grew up next door and learned the craft from Christian before taking the reins8683. This succession plan aims to keep Au Bon Canard’s legacy alive. Production Volume: Around 2,000 ducks per year (as of 2009)32, with only small seasonal batches. This is an order of magnitude smaller than the New York farms – indeed, Au Bon Canard’s annual output equals about 1 week’s output at Hudson Valley Foie Gras8788. The farm typically raises ducks in groups timed to the seasons, rather than continuous industrial production. Approximately 90–95% of its foie gras is consumed within Minnesota89. They deliberately limited distribution, selling to a handful of local restaurants and through a Minneapolis gourmet distributor (Great Ciao)89. Only recently have they offered online ordering for out-of-state customers in a limited capacity. This hyper-local focus means the farm can operate under the radar and avoid some of the activism storms that hit higher-profile producers. Farming Practices: Au Bon Canard is often cited as a more “artisanal” or humane model of foie gras production. Ducks (Moulards) at Au Bon Canard are free-range on pasture for much of their lives – they spend weeks outside in rotated grassy areas, able to play in mud and roam (protected by fencing from predators)9091. They are not given hormones, antibiotics, or artificial appetite stimulants92. The ducks know the farmers personally; Christian believed that keeping the ducks as unstressed as possible yields better foie gras, and was often quoted saying “stress is the number one factor behind taste”93. Force-feeding at Au Bon Canard is done by the farmer himself, by hand, to small groups of ducks (not by hired crews feeding thousands per day, as in larger farms)85. The ducks are about 16–17 weeks old at harvest (comparable to industry standard)94. The farm built a USDA-inspected processing plant on-site so that slaughter and processing are done in small batches with attention to detail9596. The result is a foie gras product that many chefs and connoisseurs consider the best in America for its flavor and ethical provenance. For instance, Minneapolis chef Jorge Guzman praised Au Bon Canard’s foie gras as possibly “the best product out there”97. Legal/Regulatory: Minnesota has no specific bans or proposed laws against foie gras, so Au Bon Canard has not faced legal threats to its operation. The farm did have to navigate typical farming regulations and USDA inspection for their processing, but being small, they have had a relatively easy time compared to larger operations battling legislation. One challenge they face is avian influenza outbreaks, which can affect poultry farms in the Midwest; small farms have to be vigilant, but no major flu culls at Au Bon Canard have been reported publicly.Activism has touched Au Bon Canard to a lesser degree – some national animal rights organizations mention it simply because it exists. However, there have been no known protests or raids at the farm. In 2008–2009, heavy scrutiny was on the bigger farms while Au Bon Canard’s scale perhaps shielded it. The farm’s open-door policy (they have welcomed tours and even media visits, as chronicled by Heavy Table in 2009) also serves as a contrast to the secrecy of larger factories9899. By being transparent and genuinely small-scale, Au Bon Canard has managed to garner more positive press than negative. Some animal advocates, while still opposing gavage on principle, concede that Au Bon Canard’s ducks live comparatively better lives until the force-feeding period. Notable Facts: Au Bon Canard was the first U.S. foie gras farm outside of New York/California, breaking the mold by bringing foie gras production to the Midwest. It gained a following among Upper Midwest chefs; for example, its foie gras has been featured at top Minnesota restaurants (112 Eatery, La Belle Vie, Heartland, etc., in various creative dishes100). The farm’s story – a French farmer in Minnesota – drew media interest. Heavytable.com’s feature in 2009 highlighted how “comparatively microscopic” Au Bon Canard was, with ~2,000 ducks/year vs. “Sonoma Foie Gras in California and Hudson Valley in New York [producing] around 10,000 [ducks] per week”82. This stark difference epitomizes two ends of the foie gras spectrum: a slow food approach versus industrial output. Au Bon Canard also differentiates by focusing on fresh product for local markets; ~90% of their foie gras stayed within Minnesota89, which is unusual since most foie gras producers rely on national gourmet distribution. The Gassets built a loyal local customer base and often educated chefs and the public about their methods. Christian Gasset’s commitment was such that he performed the entire gavage process himself for each flock, believing that a gentle, familiar approach kept ducks calmer93. When Christian retired in 2023, it marked the end of an era; however, by mentoring his successor (Troy) extensively for a year, he aimed to ensure continuity101. Going forward, Au Bon Canard under Troy’s stewardship intends to “continue to produce quality foie gras while ensuring humane husbandry”*102. Enthusiasts of foie gras will be watching to see if this tiny farm can maintain its esteemed reputation in the years ahead.

Location: Bush, Louisiana – a rural area about an hour north of New Orleans, in St. Tammany Parish. Backwater Foie Gras is part of “Backwater Farmstead,” a family farm that also raises other livestock and does woodworking, embracing a homesteading lifestyle103104. It’s the only foie gras producer in the U.S. South. Status: Active (very small scale). Backwater Foie Gras is a newcomer, having started in the late 2010s. It produces artisanal foie gras in limited quantities, operating essentially as a small family farm. The foie gras is sold locally (at farmers’ markets and to New Orleans chefs) and via a small online store, when in season105106. The farm also offers classes in traditional farm skills (including an “Art of Foie Gras” workshop for those curious about the process)107108. History & Ownership: Founded by Ross McKnight and family (his wife Dorothy and their extended family) around 2019. Ross was inspired after tasting foie gras prepared by a French friend (Mailys Dias) and became determined to create “the most beautiful foie gras” in this part of the world109. Backwater is explicitly run with a philosophy of traditional, small-batch farming anchored in the family’s Catholic faith (the farm’s communications sometimes reference stewardship and reverence for creation). They incorporate old-fashioned methods, even using horse-drawn equipment on the farm for some tasks110. The farm’s name “Backwater” evokes its off-the-beaten-path location and ethos. Production Volume: Exact numbers aren’t published, but Backwater’s output is extremely limited – likely only a few hundred ducks per year at most. (By comparison, in 2022 an article noted that foie gras production in the U.S. was “limited” but Ross McKnight is creating some of the finest foie gras around111.) They raise ducks seasonally and do not have continuous production. Foie gras is not available year-round; they announce “foie gras season” and once the fresh lobes are sold, that’s it until the next cycle112. This seasonal approach suggests they might produce foie gras only in cooler months or once/twice a year. The farm has Moulard ducks (most likely importing ducklings or hatching them in small batches). Practices: Backwater Foie Gras positions itself as pasture-based and humane. Their ducks live outdoors on pasture much of their lives, with access to sunshine, foraging, and natural behaviors (similar in spirit to Au Bon Canard’s model)113. Force-feeding is done by the farmers manually, presumably in a gentler manner. They characterize it as “gently hand-feed[ing]” the ducks a high-calorie natural diet to mimic pre-migration gorging111114. By presenting gavage in this light, Backwater attempts to neutralize the negative image of force-feeding. The farm likely processes the ducks on-site or in a local facility when ready. Given the micro scale, each liver is treated almost as a bespoke product. Chefs in New Orleans have started to take note of Backwater’s foie gras as a rare local delicacy. Ross McKnight’s operation has also been featured in local media and a podcast (“Louisiana Eats!” by Poppy Tooker) where the process and philosophy were discussed in depth115116. Legal/Regulatory: Louisiana has a strong culinary culture (including foie gras on some fine-dining menus), and there has been no legislative move there to ban foie gras. Indeed, foie gras is legal and generally accepted in Louisiana, a state known for its waterfowl cuisine (though traditionally more for duck meat than foie gras). Thus, Backwater has not faced any legal challenges to its existence. It operates under normal farm regulations. As a new, small farm, one challenge was likely obtaining USDA inspection for processing, but it appears they have navigated that, or they sell under a loophole (possibly as “custom” or direct-to-consumer sales which can be exempt from some USDA rules if done on farm). They do sell at a local farmers market (Covington Farmers Market) and direct to consumers, so they appear to be operating legitimately within local guidelines106. No known lawsuits or disputes involve Backwater Foie Gras. Animal Welfare: Backwater’s entire brand is built around responsible, humane farming. Of course, animal rights proponents would argue that any force-feeding is inherently cruel. But to date, Backwater has not been the subject of undercover investigations or public protests. It is somewhat under the radar of national activists, possibly because of its size and recent entry. In fact, some animal welfare discussions have cautiously welcomed the approach of places like Backwater as “incrementally better” while still opposing foie gras outright. The farm owners’ transparency (sharing videos of their farm life on social media, etc.) serves to preempt accusations of mistreatment. If foie gras can be made in a way that even slightly mitigates suffering, Backwater is trying to claim that mantle. (It remains a polarizing question whether small-scale operations truly avoid the worst welfare issues or simply put a bucolic veneer on the same practice. However, clearly the ducks at Backwater have a more outdoor life prior to gavage than those in industrial barns, and that is significant from an animal welfare perspective.) Notable Facts: Backwater Foie Gras represents a resurgence of foie gras production in an area where it never existed before. It’s quite notable that someone started a foie gras farm in the 2020s, given all the controversy. Ross McKnight’s endeavor has drawn interest for its artisan ethos – for example, the farm’s combination of foie gras production, general homesteading, and even woodworking (they sell handmade wood furniture and items as part of their farm income) is highly unusual117118. The integrated farmstead model harks back to traditional European foie gras farms where ducks might be just one part of a family farm. Also of note, Backwater may be the only foie gras producer in the U.S. that offers public classes on how to slaughter and prepare foie gras (“The Art of Foie Gras” class)107. This indicates a willingness to engage food enthusiasts in a dialogue about how foie gras is made, demystifying it (something larger producers generally shy away from). Culinary-wise, having a local producer in Louisiana excites chefs who prize local terroir – we might soon see a distinctly Louisiana spin on foie gras dishes featuring Backwater’s product. In short, Backwater Foie Gras is tiny but symbolizes the persistence of foie gras craftsmanship even as larger operations face bans. It will likely remain a specialty, serving niche markets in the South, unless it decides to scale up (which could invite more controversy).

Location: Stanislaus County, California – the farm was near Modesto, CA, in California’s Central Valley (despite the name “Sonoma,” which was used for branding). The company also briefly co-owned a foie gras bistro in the town of Sonoma, CA, but that closed in 2005119120. Years Active: 1986 – 2012. Sonoma Foie Gras operated for about 26 years before shutting down due to California’s ban on foie gras. It was founded in 1986 by Guillermo and Junny Gonzalez35 and was the sole producer of foie gras in California throughout its existence. The business was sometimes referred to as “Sonoma-Artisan Foie Gras.” Ownership: Guillermo Gonzalez, originally from El Salvador, was the founder and owner, along with his wife Junny121. Guillermo had learned about foie gras in France’s Périgord region and started his farm in California in the mid-’80s122. He is often credited (along with HVFG’s founders) as a pioneer of U.S. foie gras farming. The Gonzalezes ran the farm and also had partnerships – for example, they teamed up with a French lawyer and some chefs to open “Sonoma Saveurs,” a foie gras restaurant/retail shop in 2004123. That restaurant drew protest and vandalism and closed after a short run due to slow business119120. The core farm, however, continued until the statewide ban. Production Volume: At its peak, Sonoma Foie Gras was comparable in scale to Hudson Valley Foie Gras. In the late 2000s, it was reported that Sonoma and HVFG each were producing on the order of 10,000 ducks per week87 (though this might be a rough figure). That would extrapolate to perhaps ~500,000 ducks per year, making Sonoma FG an equal heavyweight in the industry during that time. Guillermo’s farm mainly raised Moulard ducks on a ranch property. According to an account by his wife Helena, they raised ducks from hatchlings: ducklings were brooded in barns with wood shavings until feathered, then “turned loose into walnut orchards” to range freely for a couple of months, and only in the last two weeks were they brought into barns for twice-daily gavage124125. She described each pen as about 30 square feet with a dozen ducks, and the same person did all the feeding for a given group (to minimize stress)126125. This portrayal suggests Sonoma FG tried to give ducks an outdoor life prior to gavage, somewhat akin to the French Label Rouge standards. Whether conditions were always ideal is hard to say – activists did target the farm (see below). The Gonzalezes sold most of their product through distributors and to hundreds of restaurants, especially in California’s dining scene127. Their foie gras was well-regarded by West Coast chefs. Legal and Ban History: Sonoma Foie Gras was directly shut down by California’s anti-foie-gras law (SB 1520). This law, enacted in 2004, gave producers a 7½-year phase-out period to either transition to new methods or stop. Guillermo Gonzalez actually supported the law in 2004, under the hope that the reprieve until 2012 would allow time for research into more humane foie gras methods128129. In a letter to Governor Schwarzenegger, he noted that a ban (with a long lead time) might pause the constant legal battles and give scientists a chance to prove foie gras could be humane128130. Unfortunately for him, the anticipated research funding never materialized131. When July 1, 2012 arrived, California’s law took effect (it became illegal to force-feed birds for foie gras, and illegal to sell products from force-fed birds)19132. Sonoma Foie Gras ceased operations at that time. The Gonzalezes closed the farm and laid off their workers (reportedly telling employees only at the last minute)133. Some California restaurants held “farewell to foie gras” dinners in mid-2012 to use up remaining stock and honor Guillermo’s products36134. Guillermo did join lawsuits after the ban took effect, in an attempt to overturn the sales ban; for instance, he was a plaintiff in the initial suit that got the ban overturned in U.S. District Court in 2015 (which was later reversed by higher courts)20. But effectively, Sonoma Foie Gras as a farm was finished. Guillermo had to euthanize or relocate his breeding stock of ducks and could no longer raise foie gras. Animal Welfare Issues: Being the only foie gras farm in the state, Sonoma Foie Gras was under intense scrutiny from California activists. Groups like the Animal Legal Defense Fund and PETA focused on it in the early 2000s. There were instances of vandalism and direct action: for example, the Sonoma Saveurs restaurant had windows smashed and was graffiti-tagged by protesters at one point119135. Activists also infiltrated the farm; one famous video in the mid-2000s showed grim images of ducks at the Gonzalez farm, fueling public outrage that helped pass the ban. The Gonzalezes argued their farm was humane – they pointed to practices like giving ducks outdoor time in orchards and using a single dedicated feeder for consistency124131. They also cited studies (and even sought new research) claiming that properly managed gavage does not cause pathological stress to ducks136137. Nonetheless, investigators found issues such as injured or dead ducks on the farm, and the optics of any force-feeding were hard to overcome. Once the law passed, California officials didn’t actually inspect Sonoma Foie Gras for the new standards (since the ban was a complete prohibition rather than welfare regulations). Thus, Sonoma FG was never fined or cited for animal cruelty – the ban simply outlawed the practice entirely. Guillermo’s stance was that without scientific vindication of gavage, he had no defense in the court of public opinion. His hope that the ban would prompt a search for “humane foie gras” did not pan out in time131128. (Notably, some producers in Spain later claimed to make “natural foie gras” by timing harvest after spontaneous gorging, but that method is not easily scalable and wasn’t ready to save Sonoma FG.) Aftermath: With Sonoma Foie Gras closed, California chefs had to source foie gras from out-of-state (often illegally). For a period between 2015 and 2017, foie gras sales resumed in CA due to the legal injunction, and HVFG and others shipped products in, but once the ban was reinstated, it became contraband in restaurants again. The Gonzalezes did not reopen elsewhere; they effectively retired from foie gras. Their case became a cautionary tale: the only U.S. state to ban foie gras outright succeeded in driving out its one producer. The industry’s supporters cite this as a loss of jobs and a slippery slope for farming rights, while supporters of the ban hail it as a victory against animal cruelty. Notable Facts: Sonoma Foie Gras was for many years half of the U.S. foie gras supply. The fact that one law eliminated such a large chunk of production demonstrates how concentrated the industry was. California’s ban is also notable for its public relations saga: the term “Foie-mageddon” was coined in media to describe the frenzy before the ban took effect138. Chefs threw indulgent foie gras feasts (one served 30 preparations of foie in one dinner)134; others, like in Chicago’s ban period, offered it “secretly” as off-menu freebies to skirt the law139. The whole episode arguably raised foie gras’s profile even more, though in a contentious way. Another note: Guillermo Gonzalez’s role in the 2004 legislation was somewhat ironic – by agreeing to a compromise (ban with phase-out), he perhaps underestimated the difficulty of changing public perception. He was quoted as being bitter by the end, feeling that the “onslaught of legal expenses” from activist litigation made continuing impossible128. After closing, the Gonzalezes kept a low profile. Meanwhile, California’s stance influenced other places (e.g., New York City cited the California example when passing its own ban). In culinary circles, some lamented that an American foie gras pioneer was put out of business; others celebrated it as a step forward for animal welfare. Sonoma Foie Gras’s legacy is thus a microcosm of the foie gras debate: a prized culinary tradition colliding with evolving ethics and laws.

The foie gras industry in the United States is small, embattled, but persistent. As of 2025, only two sizable farms (Hudson Valley Foie Gras and La Belle Farm in New York) and a couple of boutique farms (Au Bon Canard in Minnesota and Backwater in Louisiana) continue the practice on American soil. Their combined output is well under 500 tons of foie gras liver annually12, a tiny fraction of global production. Economically, foie gras is a niche luxury market – important to certain farmers and gourmet suppliers, but not a significant contributor to the overall U.S. agricultural economy. Culturally, however, foie gras looms larger than its size: it features on menus of high-end restaurants and has been at the center of high-profile legal and ethical battles. Major Challenges: Legislative efforts to ban foie gras on cruelty grounds represent the biggest threat to U.S. producers. California’s successful ban (and the failed attempts to overturn it) set a precedent. New York City’s attempted ban – if it ultimately succeeds – could further shrink the market and perhaps drive New York state to consider action (though state officials so far have sided with farmers21). Public opinion in the U.S. is gradually turning against practices perceived as inhumane; foie gras, often castigated as “inhumane luxury”, is vulnerable in this climate. The industry’s strategy of fighting in courts rather than substantively changing methods has yielded temporary reprieves but also public relations setbacks2521. On the other hand, the demise of Sonoma Foie Gras shows that legal bans do decisively work when implemented. It remains to be seen if other states or cities will follow California and NYC – a patchwork of local bans could slowly constrict foie gras availability, unless the industry can mount a convincing defense or adaptation. Global Comparison: Globally, the U.S. stands out more for opposition to foie gras than for production. While France and some other countries treat foie gras as a heritage product, the U.S. has prominent movements to boycott or outlaw it. No national ban exists in the U.S., but India, Israel, Britain and others have banned either production or import of foie gras on ethical grounds140. If the remaining U.S. farms were to close, American chefs would simply import foie gras (as was done pre-1980s), assuming imports remain legal. Indeed, even during California’s ban, some foie gras from France (like Rougié brand) still found its way in through personal shipments or legal gray areas, and a French producer joined the NY farmers’ lawsuit to protect its U.S. market23. Thus, the fight over foie gras in America also has international dimensions. Final Notes: The future of U.S. foie gras may hinge on whether producers can innovate or improve public perception. Ideas like cage-free barns (already in use), providing more outdoor access (as smaller farms do), or even non-force-fed “naturally engorged” foie gras (experimental) are frequently discussed. For now, traditional gavage remains the norm at all U.S. farms, and that is the crux of the controversy. It’s a small industry with an outsized symbolism: for supporters, foie gras is a treasured culinary art whose producers are craftsmen; for detractors, it exemplifies unnecessary cruelty for the sake of gastronomy. All foie gras farms in the U.S. – past and present – exist along that fault line of debate. Whether one views them as proud farm enterprises or places of animal suffering, the facts compiled above provide a comprehensive look at who and where they are, how they operate, and the challenges they have faced. Sources: Industry and production statistics: 122 Hudson Valley Foie Gras profile: 38435452 La Belle Farm profile: 291773 Au Bon Canard profile: 1418931 Backwater Foie Gras profile: 111103 Sonoma Foie Gras profile (historical): 1912836 1 3 4 12 13 15 42 140 Foie gras - Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foie_gras 2 14 16 17 18 21 25 30 68 69 7 facts the foie gras industry doesn't want you to know - Pro-Animal Future https://proanimal.org/7-facts-the-foie-gras-industry-doesnt-want-you-to-know/ 5 6 7 8 9 20 23 24 49 50 52 65 73 New York City votes to ban foie gras | The Counter https://thecounter.org/new-york-city-votes-ban-foie-gras/ 10 11 Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of Foie Gras | Columbia Magazine https://magazine.columbia.edu/article/life-liberty-and-pursuit-foie-gras 19 35 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 136 137 The last hurrah of foie gras https://www.newtimesslo.com/news-2/the-last-hurrah-of-foie-gras-2941298/ 22 Farmed Animal Welfare: Foie Gras - MSPCA-Angell https://www.mspca.org/animal_protection/farm-animal-welfare-ducks-geese/ 26 Hudson Valley Farms | World Famous Foie Gras, Duck & Chicken https://hudsonvalleyfoiegras.com/ 27 38 39 44 45 46 47 48 51 61 62 64 Hudson Valley Foie Gras | Welcome to Hudson Valley Farms https://hudsonvalleyfoiegras.com/pages/about-hv-farms 28 41 43 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 What Hudson Valley Foie Gras Doesn’t Want You to Know https://sentientmedia.org/what-hudson-valley-foie-gras-doesnt-want-you-to-know/ 29 66 67 70 71 72 74 75 76 77 78 The Story Behind La Belle Farms and Bella Bella Gourmet Foods https://bellabellagourmet.com/blogs/news/the-story-behind-la-belle-farms-and-bella-bella-gourmet-foods?srsltid=AfmBOooy7xHG2UjmGHCMlJvY3B8HB6bva5XLzBOtL-DOeziBHxw6nEXl 31 83 84 86 92 95 96 97 101 102 About — Au Bon Canard https://www.abcfoiegras.com/history 32 80 81 82 85 87 88 89 90 91 93 94 98 99 100 141 The Ducks of Au Bon Canard in Caledonia – Heavy Table https://heavytable.com/the-ducks-of-au-bon-canard-in-caledonia/ 33 34 109 111 114 115 116 St. Tammany Taste Quick Bites: Backwater Foie Gras - Poppy Tooker https://www.poppytooker.com/this-weeks-show/2022/10/6/st-tammany-taste-quick-bite-backwater-foie-gras 36 133 134 138 139 Three Days Until Foiemageddon: Will You Indulge or Adjust? | LAist https://laist.com/news/food/three-days-until-foiemageddon-will 37 119 120 121 123 135 Sonoma Saveurs foie gras shop closes https://www.sfgate.com/insidescoop/article/sonoma-saveurs-foie-gras-shop-closes-2732271.php 40 Michael Aeyal Ginor - Hudson Valley Duck Farm https://www.hudsonvalleyduckfarm.com/index.php/michael-aeyal-ginor 53 Federal District Court Decision, "HSUS v. Hudson Valley Foie Gras ... https://humanewatch.org/document/federal_district_court_decision_hsus_v-_hudson_valley_foie_gras_llc_ma/ 63 Foie gras saga continues | The River Reporter https://riverreporter.com/stories/foie-gras-saga-continues,15995 79 Sullivan County Duck Farms to Continue to Sell Foie Gras in NYC ... https://bellabellagourmet.com/blogs/news/sullivan-county-duck-farms-to-continue-to-sell-foie-gras-in-nyc-per-nys-court-injunction?srsltid=AfmBOorOYtuuexxmb357yGEhaQcWGuIfzErTi70kVOfA3rG-vMsHLgOK 103 104 105 106 107 108 110 112 113 117 118 Backwater Foie Gras, Farmstead, and Workshop https://backwaterfoiegras.com/ 122 California chefs in stew over foie gras ban - The Korea Herald https://m.koreaherald.com/view.php?ud=20120521000576