company profile

Au Bon Canard (Caledonia, MN) is a renowned small family farm producing foie gras and duck products in the French tradition. It was founded by Christian and Liz Gasset, a French-born couple, who began raising ducks around 2003 and officially launched the farm in spring 2004[1]. For about 20 years, the Gassets ran the operation essentially by themselves, adhering to an artisanal scale and method. In mid-2023, the founders retired and transferred ownership to Troy and Katie (a neighboring farm family who had helped on the farm), ensuring continuity of Au Bon Canard’s practices into the next generation[2][3]. Throughout its history, the farm’s philosophy has been “quality, not quantity,” focusing on traditional methods and animal welfare over expansion[4]. Scale & Workforce: Au Bon Canard is intentionally very small-scale. At its peak under the Gassets, they processed roughly 2,000 ducks per year for foie gras[5] – a tiny output compared to industrial farms (as noted later). The farm was essentially a two-person operation, with Christian and Liz doing nearly everything (Christian raising and feeding the ducks, Liz often making deliveries), only hiring a few extra hands on slaughter days[6]. Christian was content with this size, stating he had no desire to grow larger because that would mean dealing with more employees and paperwork instead of hands-on farming[4]. This modest scale meant profitability was limited – in fact, the farm operated for several years at a loss and only turned a profit ~4 years after founding (around 2007)[7]. “I’m never going to be rich. It doesn’t matter. I’m happy with my lifestyle,” Christian remarked, underscoring that their priority was the craft and the ducks, not making big money[8]. Farming Practices: Au Bon Canard raises Moulard ducks (a cross of Muscovy and Pekin breeds) for foie gras[9]. The ducks are brooded from hatchlings and then given extensive outdoor access as they grow. The small flocks live on pasture in the rolling hills of southeastern Minnesota, with plenty of space, sunshine, grass, and bugs – no antibiotics or growth hormones are used[10]. The Gassets believed low-stress, natural living conditions lead to better foie gras. Ducks roam freely for most of their lives, and when it comes time for the fattening phase, they are brought in small groups into a barn for gavage (hand-feeding). Christian himself performed the feedings gently, using a tube to give each duck measured corn rations, and was careful to keep the birds calm and familiar with him[11]. This personal, humane approach was a point of pride: “Stress is the number one factor behind taste… That’s why I like to raise them myself, so they know me. When I do the feeding, they know I’m not going to hurt them,” he explained[11]. The farm follows a seasonal cycle (allowing ducks to molt and not overtaxing the land) and even rotates pastures with other animals (like sheep or horses) to keep the soil healthy[12]. Moulard ducks on pasture at Au Bon Canard farm. Au Bon Canard emphasizes giving ducks ample outdoor space and a natural diet for most of their lives, only hand-feeding them in the final stage to produce foie gras[10]. This humane, small-batch approach includes an on-site USDA-inspected processing facility, so the ducks are slaughtered on the farm in small batches under the family’s supervision[13]. The careful handling and minimal stress result in foie gras that chefs have praised for its superior taste and texture. (In fact, one chef noted Au Bon Canard’s foie gras “has won every taste test” they’ve put it in, beating other sources nationally[14].) Products and Sales: Despite its size, Au Bon Canard produces a full range of duck products. In addition to foie gras lobes (the fattened livers), the farm utilizes the whole duck – selling magret (duck breast), legs (often for confit), duck fat, hearts, gizzards, and more[15]. During the Gassets’ tenure, the vast majority of sales were to high-end restaurants. Indeed, 90–95% of their foie gras stayed within Minnesota, where many top chefs prized it on their menus[16]. They partnered with a local gourmet distributor (Great Ciao in Minneapolis) to supply Minnesota restaurants with fresh foie gras and duck meat[16]. This local focus was partly by design (ensuring freshness and manageable logistics) and partly due to limited supply. Nevertheless, Au Bon Canard gained a national reputation among chefs**. It was known “all over the country” for exceptional quality birds, even though the farm itself primarily sold to regional restaurants[17]. Chefs from as far as New York and California became aware of its foie gras through word-of-mouth and culinary circles. In recent years, especially following the ownership transition, Au Bon Canard has started to expand access beyond restaurants. For the first time, the farm began offering direct sales to individual customers, not just professional chefs[18]. This means food connoisseurs can order foie gras or duck meat from the farm (for example, via their website or special orders) instead of only encountering it at restaurants. This shift was accelerated by necessity during the COVID-19 pandemic: when restaurant shutdowns in 2020 halted orders, one loyal client (Meritage, a French restaurant in St. Paul) coordinated a curbside sale of Au Bon Canard’s ducks and foie gras directly to local consumers to “help keep the farm afloat,” with all proceeds going to the farm[19][20]. Such efforts helped the farm survive a difficult period and highlighted the community support for this artisanal producer. Today, under Troy’s management, Au Bon Canard continues to serve fine-dining restaurants (especially in the Midwest) and sells to the public (through an online shop and on-farm pickup), all while maintaining the same traditional techniques and high quality standards[21][18].

Backwater Foie Gras is a newer entrant, a pasture-based family farm in Bush, Louisiana (a rural area about an hour north of New Orleans)[26]. It was founded in 2019 by Ross McKnight, together with his wife Dorothy and his parents (Dan and Julie McKnight)[27][28]. The idea grew out of Ross’s fascination with traditional foods and self-sufficient farming: notably, Ross was inspired by friends from France (Laurent and Maïlys) who introduced him to foie gras, and he became determined to prove it could be produced ethically on a small scale in Louisiana[29][28]. After some successful backyard trials (Ross even managed to fatten a few Muscovy drakes for foie gras on a ¾-acre suburban lot, which “produced some very fine foie gras” and convinced him of the possibilities[30]), the McKnights purchased a small farm property in late 2019 to turn this dream into reality. The name “Backwater Foie Gras” itself is a tongue-in-cheek reference to their local roots – Ross named the company after a Walker Percy description of his hometown (Covington, LA) as a “backwater,” embracing a humble, rural identity in contrast to foie gras’s fancy image[31]. Who Runs It: Backwater is very much a family affair, spanning multiple generations. Ross (a former teacher turned finance professional) is the primary farmer, but his parents (Dan & Julie) are co-founders and daily participants, and his wife Dorothy is also deeply involved[28]. (The McKnights even have young children – Ross and Dorothy are raising five kids on the farm – so in a sense the farmstead involves three generations, though the children are still little.) The family tends to ducks as well as other farm animals (they keep a milk cow, pigs, and chickens as part of a broader homestead)[32]. No outside employees are on staff; Backwater operates with the labor of the family. This close-knit crew handles everything from feeding and butchering ducks to selling at markets. Their passion is also tied to their cultural and religious values – the McKnights are devout Catholics and see their farming as part of a stewardship of creation and traditional living (a fact that has both attracted like-minded supporters and, as noted later, stirred a bit of controversy on social media in 2023). Scale & Growth: Backwater Foie Gras remains extremely small-scale. In the very beginning, Ross started with just a few dozen ducks in his backyard (at one point nearly 90 ducks were being raised on their suburban lot during trials)[33]. After moving to the farm, they have expanded, but only modestly. The farm raises ducks in small batches – for example, they might raise on the order of dozens of ducks at a time, not thousands. While exact figures aren’t publicly stated, one can infer the annual output is likely in the low hundreds of ducks per year (enough to supply a few farmers market customers and local chefs). Backwater also operates on a seasonal production cycle: Foie gras is not made year-round in the Louisiana heat. Instead, they typically fatten ducks for foie gras in the cooler months (fall/winter) and pause foie gras production during the hottest part of summer (when forcing ducks to eat more could be stressful or unhealthy)[34]. During those off-season months, the farm “bridges the gap” by selling other poultry products – for instance, raising chickens or non-gavage ducks for meat, to keep income flowing[34]. This seasonal approach means Backwater’s foie gras output is limited and specialty – a far cry from continuous industrial production. Farming Practices: As a pasture-based farm, Backwater’s ethos is to mimic natural processes as much as possible and treat the animals with respect. They primarily raise Muscovy ducks (a duck breed that, in the wild, can develop a fatty liver seasonally) and possibly some hybrids. From day one, the ducks are brooded and then put onto rotational pasture as soon as they’re old enough. Ross uses mobile pen enclosures and rotating electric mesh fences to allow the ducks to forage on fresh grass and insects, moving them regularly to prevent land overuse[35]. The ducks live outdoors for the majority of their lifespan, enjoying a diet of grass, bugs, and supplemental grains. Pasture-raised ducks at Backwater Foie Gras in Louisiana. Backwater raises its ducks outdoors on grass with movable fencing and simple shelters, as shown above. This pasture-based system allows the birds to forage and exercise freely, in contrast to the confined barns typical of large foie gras operations. Only in the final two weeks or so are Backwater’s ducks brought into feeding pens for the gavage (hand-feeding) phase[36]. During that fattening period (about Week 13–15 of the ducks’ life), Ross individually hand-feeds each duck a precise measure of corn feed by hand, twice a day, to gently enlarge the liver[36]. The farm even implements a “pré-gavage” step while the ducks are still on pasture – giving them scheduled high-calorie meals so they start self-gorging a bit, which stretches their crops and prepares them for the hand-feeding period[37]. All of this is done to minimize shock and stress to the animals. As Ross describes, they are “creating something beautiful in cooperation with the natural abilities of these amazing waterfowl,” rather than simply force-feeding in an industrial manner[38]. This artisanal approach has been a “game changer” for many people who doubted foie gras could be produced humanely – seeing the ducks roaming outside and healthy has changed minds in the local community[38]. The end result is a foie gras product from Backwater that Ross and his family can proudly say is made with respect for the animal. They are transparent about their process: they often invite customers to visit the farm and see for themselves “what it means to humanely raise foie gras”[39]. Just as Au Bon Canard did in Minnesota, Backwater has an open-door attitude, using education (they even offer on-farm classes like a workshop called “The Art of Foie Gras” to demonstrate the technique[40]) to demystify foie gras production. Products and Sales: Backwater markets not only foie gras itself but a variety of duck products and farm goods. At local farmers markets, Ross’s stand typically offers items such as foie gras lobes, prepared foie gras pâté or mousse, duck rillettes (a type of spreadable confit), duck leg confit, and magret séché (cured duck breast akin to prosciutto)[41]. In addition, they sell fresh/frozen duck parts (breasts, leg quarters, whole ducks when available) and other poultry. For instance, Backwater raises chickens for meat and eggs, and sells those, especially when foie gras production is off-season[42]. The farm’s branding is “Foie Gras & Farmstead” because they also incorporate other farmstead products – they even have a woodworking side business (Ross handcrafts wooden cutting boards, furniture, etc., which they sell online) and a general homesteading model to diversify income[43][32]. When it comes to selling foie gras and duck products, Backwater relies on direct-to-customer channels. Primarily, Ross sells at farmers markets on the Northshore and in New Orleans. He is a regular at the Covington Farmers Market on Saturdays and the Crescent City Farmers Market (New Orleans) on Thursdays[44][45]. Customers at these markets can buy foie gras and charcuterie directly from him. The farm also takes online orders through their website (they have an online store where customers can reserve products when in stock). Given their limited output, Backwater’s foie gras is something local chefs and foodies seek out in small quantities. A few New Orleans area restaurants had started to feature Backwater’s foie gras on their menus – a proud moment for the McKnights (“The first time we saw Backwater Foie Gras called by name on a menu, it blew us away,” Ross recalled[46]). However, the farm does not have national distribution; they do not use large distributors. Any restaurant sourcing Backwater’s product does so directly from the farm. This independence allows Backwater to stay true to its values, but it also means their market is somewhat niche and localized. A noteworthy episode in 2023 highlighted both the fragility and community support of Backwater’s business. In June 2023, Ross posted a religious message on the farm’s social media (expressing his Catholic perspective over Pride Month), which led to controversy. In response, two of Backwater’s largest restaurant clients (summer-season accounts) canceled their orders in protest[47]. This represented a loss of about $6,000 in monthly revenue for the farm during the summer – a significant hit for such a small operation[34]. That revenue had been coming from supplying those restaurants with duck meat and other products in foie gras off-season. The sudden loss threatened Backwater’s finances. However, what followed was a rally of support from others: many Catholic and local supporters stepped up, buying more products directly and donating to the farm, effectively replacing the lost income[48]. This incident underscores that Backwater’s scale is modest (a few contracts can make or break a month) and that it leans on a community of patrons who value the farm’s family and ethical stance. As of late 2023, Backwater continues to operate, focusing on individual customers, farmers market sales, and occasional restaurant collaborations that align with their values.