key players

Even without domestic farms, a network of individuals and companies was responsible for bringing foie gras to American plates. These key actors include the importers who sourced the product abroad, the distributors and specialty vendors who supplied restaurants and retailers, and the visionary chefs who popularized foie gras in their cities. Major Importers/Distributors: In the pre-80s period, there wasn’t a single dominant foie gras importer equivalent to what D’Artagnan would become later. Instead, several niche importers and gourmet food companies handled foie gras alongside other European delicacies: French Export Firms and U.S. Agents: Companies in France such as Rougié, Mauros, and Aux Trois Petits Cochons (not to be confused with the later U.S. charcuterie of the same name) produced canned foie gras and pâtés. These firms often had U.S. import agents. For example, Ciba-Geigy’s food division (a Swiss company) in the 1970s handled imports of certain luxury foods and might have been involved in foie gras. Petrossian, the Paris caviar house, opened a boutique in New York in 1984, but even before that they likely had U.S. clients for their packaged foie gras (Petrossian produced and sold foie gras terrines). Their products would arrive by air freight and clear customs in New York, then be warehoused by an import agent for distribution. Specialty Food Importers (NYC and SF): Cities like New York had importers such as European Imports, Ltd. or Charles Lepetit, Inc., which in the 1970s supplied French restaurants with everything from escargots to cheese to foie gras. These were relatively small operations that knew the intricacies of U.S. customs for animal products and maintained refrigerated storage for items like foie gras. They would sell directly to restaurants or to high-end grocers. On the West Coast, a similar role was played by companies like L’Epicurien in Los Angeles or Gourmet & More in San Francisco. Gourmet Retailers as Importers: Some famous gourmet shops essentially acted as their own importers. Balducci’s and Dean & DeLuca in New York, for example, might directly import a batch of foie gras terrines for the holiday season. Similarly, Neiman Marcus (the luxury department store) was known for importing delicacies for its catalog – they famously sold a “Noah’s Ark of Food” in 1968 which included foie gras pâté. These retailers navigated import regulations or worked with import brokers to bring in foie gras as part of their exclusive offerings. Catalog and Mail-Order Specialists: Even in the 1970s, there were a few mail-order gourmet companies (like Abercrombie & Fitch’s food department or Williams-Sonoma, which originally sold some gourmet food along with cookware) that offered imported foie gras. They would have a supply chain via New York or directly from France by post. Such operations were not large but did reach a national clientele of gourmands. It should be noted that, relative to today, the volumes were so low that importers often treated foie gras as a seasonal or occasional product. For instance, an importer might bring in a pallet of canned foie gras in November to distribute for the holidays, rather than maintaining year-round stock. The cost of stockpiling and the limited shelf-life of top-quality fresh foie gras made continuous import less feasible. Key Chefs and Restaurants Popularizing Foie Gras: The chefs were arguably the most influential actors in establishing foie gras in the U.S. pre-1980s. They created the demand and the culture around it. Let’s profile some of the major ones city-by-city: New York City – The Pioneers: As mentioned, Henri Soulé deserves credit for first familiarizing Americans with foie gras on a wide scale at the 1939 Fair and later at Le Pavillon. Soulé was not the chef (he was proprietor), but he assembled a team that included chefs like Pierre Franey and Louis Diat, who ensured foie gras was prepared impeccably. Soulé’s rationale for featuring foie gras was simple: it was the crown jewel of French gastronomy, indispensable to a truly grand menu. He treated it almost as a requirement for a restaurant of Pavillon’s stature, and he sourced only the best (initially flying it from Strasbourg or Paris). His customers, the crème of society, quickly learned to love it; ordering the foie gras at Le Pavillon became a status statement. After Soulé, André Surmain and André Soltner at Lutèce carried the torch. Soltner, an Alsatian, had foie gras in his blood (Alsace has a foie gras tradition dating back centuries). At Lutèce, he not only served classic cold foie gras with truffles, but also innovated with that sautéed preparation. Soltner described foie gras as integral to Lutèce’s identity – it was one of the dishes that put the restaurant on the map. Indeed, in 1972 W magazine grouped Lutèce among “Les Six” grand restaurants, explicitly referencing its famous foie gras dish as a differentiator[14]. Another NY chef, Pierre Troisgros (of France’s Troisgros family) briefly had a hand in a NYC spot in the ’60s and would have brought foie gras know-how. By the late ’70s, emerging NY chefs like Jean-Jacques Rachou at La Côte Basque and Michel Fitoussi at Le Cirque were also featuring foie gras, indicating its entrenched place at the top tier of NYC dining. Chicago – Jean Banchet: Chef Banchet’s Le Français (opened 1973) was often called the best French restaurant in America outside NYC. Banchet served foie gras en croûte (foie gras baked in pastry) and other delicacies to Chicago’s elite. He would talk about sourcing – initially he too relied on French imports. By the late 1970s, interestingly, Banchet had started tapping a new source: a farm in upstate New York that had begun raising ducks for foie gras (this was the very dawn of domestic production, technically post-1979). But in the pre-’80s phase, he mostly got canned or frozen lobes. His inclusion of foie gras on a Midwestern menu was bold and helped broaden its geographic reach. It told the Heartland, “We have this luxury just like New York or Paris.” Philadelphia – Georges Perrier: At Le Bec-Fin (opened 1970), Perrier made foie gras terrine one of the stars of his lavish fixed-price menus. He often paired terrine de foie gras with Sauternes jelly or spiced fruit compote. He once said in an interview that to him, “foie gras is to French cuisine what diamonds are to jewelry – you don’t need a lot, but its presence raises the level of everything.” He also sometimes made “Truffe Soufflé” which had a foie gras filling. Perrier sourced from New York importers; by the late ’70s he might get special deliveries from France via his airline contacts (Philadelphia’s airport had Air France flights then). Los Angeles – Jean Bertranou and Wolfgang Puck: At L’Ermitage (opened 1973) under Chef Bertranou, one could find dishes like médaillons de foie gras on brioche. Puck, when he took over at Ma Maison in the late ’70s, also kept foie gras on the menu in keeping with its luxe reputation – though Puck began to introduce California ingredients, he still respected the French canon enough to serve classics to Hollywood stars. Their rationale was that in image-conscious LA, having foie gras signaled one’s restaurant was as world-class as any in Paris. Sourcing was via specialty importers in San Francisco or direct shipments to LAX from France (the booming air freight of the 707/747 era made it at least technically feasible). San Francisco – Tower of French Tradition: SF had a strong tradition of French chefs going back to the Gold Rush. By mid-20th century, Ernest Arbogast at the Palace Hotel (earlier, 1900s) served foie gras, and later the likes of Chef Jacques Ledoux at Ernie’s in the ’50s–’60s would include foie gras in flambéed preparations. Jacky Robert at Ernest (late ’70s) was known for a foie gras mousse. These chefs considered foie gras part of the heritage of grand cuisine that SF’s high society expected on occasion. Washington, D.C. – Jean-Louis Palladin: As detailed, Palladin was a game-changer. Arriving in 1979 with two Michelin stars from France at age 32, he was arguably the most credentialed chef to work in America up to that point[18]. He insisted on foie gras in his repertoire – but found none domestically. His solution: import it seasonally himself[7]. He would tell the press that certain ingredients like foie gras and truffles were “non-negotiable” in creating a great restaurant. At Jean-Louis, he often served foie gras roasted and paired with something like caramelized apples or in a warm salad with greens – very modern for the time. His efforts, though late in the ’70s, helped inspire others to consider producing foie gras here so chefs like him could get it fresh year-round (indeed, Ariane Daguin has credited Palladin as motivating her to find domestic sources in the ’80s). Sourcing, Quality Standards and Sourcing Mentions: When these chefs described their foie gras to customers or the media, they emphasized quality and origin. Many menus would note “Foie Gras d’Alsace” or “Foie Gras du Périgord” to highlight they imported the real deal from the French regions famous for it. Chefs might mention a particular purveyor in interviews – e.g., Soltner thanking “Madame D. in Strasbourg” who sent him foie gras, or Palladin joking he had to smuggle it past U.S. customs. By and large, the chefs maintained a mystique around it: it was their special ingredient, not easily gotten elsewhere. Some chefs set standards like only using goose foie gras (considered superior by traditionalists) as opposed to duck foie gras, which was becoming more common in France by the ’70s. (France was shifting to duck foie gras for ease – something old-guard chefs noticed. For example, French-born chefs in the ’70s might lament that good goose foie gras was harder to find and that much imported foie gras was now from ducks. They might tell their supplier to get the best goose livers available for an important banquet.) Importers & Chefs Collaboration: It’s worth noting that importers often worked closely with these chefs. Stories abound of importers calling Chef X when a fresh batch came in, or chefs pooling orders to justify an air shipment. For example, Andre Soltner and Henri Soulé likely coordinated shipments from France together in the ’60s (Soulé had the connections; Soltner needed product). In the late ’70s, Ariane Daguin (then just a young employee at a NY charcuterie shop) witnessed the high demand from chefs and attempted to broker a deal with a small farm – an endeavor that eventually led to her founding D’Artagnan in 1985[19][20]. In that anecdote, “her bosses opted out” of a farm contract in the mid-80s[19], which implies that even earlier, in the late ’70s, those bosses had been importing foie gras to supply restaurants (they just weren’t ready to invest in domestic production). Why These Actors Featured Foie Gras: Summing up their rationale: Chefs: They featured foie gras to establish culinary legitimacy and prestige. In their minds, a French restaurant without foie gras was like a symphony without violins. It was part of the classical repertoire and also a way to elevate their menu’s perceived luxury, attracting affluent patrons. Chefs also personally loved the flavor and versatility – many of them grew up in France savoring it at Christmas, so it was part of their own foodie passion. Importers/Distributors: For them, foie gras was a high-margin specialty product that complemented their portfolio of truffles, fine wines, cheeses, etc. Carrying foie gras gave them cachet – it signaled they dealt in the finest goods. Volume might have been low, but the profit per unit was good and it solidified relationships with top clients (chefs would be very loyal to an importer who reliably delivered foie gras, given its scarcity). Importers like Daguin’s early employer realized there was an opportunity to expand the market if supply could be steadier (hence entertaining the idea of contracting a farm). Essentially, foie gras was an item that distinguished a specialty importer from broadline food distributors who wouldn’t bother with such esoterica. Restaurateurs/Owners: From a business standpoint, serving foie gras allowed charging premium prices and garnering a certain clientele. It was part of the theater of luxury dining – e.g., rolling out a gilded cart with a whole foie gras terrine under a cloche for table-side service at La Grenouille. The owners knew this created buzz and justified steep prix-fixe prices. It was an investment in brand prestige. In conclusion, the key actors before domestic production were a small, interconnected network. They were passionate (mostly French) chefs, savvy importers, and gourmet suppliers concentrated in a few cities. They collectively kept the flame of foie gras alive in the U.S. during an era when it could have easily been absent. Without them, Americans might have had to wait much longer to experience foie gras at all. Their efforts not only satisfied existing demand but arguably built new demand by exposing more Americans to foie gras and whetting appetites that, by the 1980s, outgrew the sporadic import-only model – thus paving the way for domestic production to finally begin.