Comparison of Au Bon Canard (MN) and Backwater Foie Gras (LA) Farms

Foie gras production is very limited in the United States, with only a handful of farms producing this delicacy. Two notable small-scale producers are Au Bon Canard in Minnesota and Backwater Foie Gras & Farmstead in Louisiana. Both are family-run farms dedicated to artisanal, humane foie gras, yet each has its own unique history, scale, and methods. Below we provide detailed profiles of each farm – covering their founders, operations, markets, and more – followed by a comparative analysis (including a side-by-side table) and how they differ from large producers like Hudson Valley Foie Gras.

Au Bon Canard (Caledonia, MN) is a renowned small family farm producing foie gras and duck products in the French tradition. It was founded by Christian and Liz Gasset, a French-born couple, who began raising ducks around 2003 and officially launched the farm in spring 20041. For about 20 years, the Gassets ran the operation essentially by themselves, adhering to an artisanal scale and method. In mid-2023, the founders retired and transferred ownership to Troy and Katie (a neighboring farm family who had helped on the farm), ensuring continuity of Au Bon Canard’s practices into the next generation23. Throughout its history, the farm’s philosophy has been “quality, not quantity,” focusing on traditional methods and animal welfare over expansion4. Scale & Workforce: Au Bon Canard is intentionally very small-scale. At its peak under the Gassets, they processed roughly 2,000 ducks per year for foie gras5 – a tiny output compared to industrial farms (as noted later). The farm was essentially a two-person operation, with Christian and Liz doing nearly everything (Christian raising and feeding the ducks, Liz often making deliveries), only hiring a few extra hands on slaughter days6. Christian was content with this size, stating he had no desire to grow larger because that would mean dealing with more employees and paperwork instead of hands-on farming4. This modest scale meant profitability was limited – in fact, the farm operated for several years at a loss and only turned a profit ~4 years after founding (around 2007)7. “I’m never going to be rich. It doesn’t matter. I’m happy with my lifestyle,” Christian remarked, underscoring that their priority was the craft and the ducks, not making big money8. Farming Practices: Au Bon Canard raises Moulard ducks (a cross of Muscovy and Pekin breeds) for foie gras9. The ducks are brooded from hatchlings and then given extensive outdoor access as they grow. The small flocks live on pasture in the rolling hills of southeastern Minnesota, with plenty of space, sunshine, grass, and bugs – no antibiotics or growth hormones are used10. The Gassets believed low-stress, natural living conditions lead to better foie gras. Ducks roam freely for most of their lives, and when it comes time for the fattening phase, they are brought in small groups into a barn for gavage (hand-feeding). Christian himself performed the feedings gently, using a tube to give each duck measured corn rations, and was careful to keep the birds calm and familiar with him11. This personal, humane approach was a point of pride: “Stress is the number one factor behind taste… That’s why I like to raise them myself, so they know me. When I do the feeding, they know I’m not going to hurt them,” he explained11. The farm follows a seasonal cycle (allowing ducks to molt and not overtaxing the land) and even rotates pastures with other animals (like sheep or horses) to keep the soil healthy12. Moulard ducks on pasture at Au Bon Canard farm. Au Bon Canard emphasizes giving ducks ample outdoor space and a natural diet for most of their lives, only hand-feeding them in the final stage to produce foie gras10. This humane, small-batch approach includes an on-site USDA-inspected processing facility, so the ducks are slaughtered on the farm in small batches under the family’s supervision13. The careful handling and minimal stress result in foie gras that chefs have praised for its superior taste and texture. (In fact, one chef noted Au Bon Canard’s foie gras “has won every taste test” they’ve put it in, beating other sources nationally14.) Products and Sales: Despite its size, Au Bon Canard produces a full range of duck products. In addition to foie gras lobes (the fattened livers), the farm utilizes the whole duck – selling magret (duck breast), legs (often for confit), duck fat, hearts, gizzards, and more15. During the Gassets’ tenure, the vast majority of sales were to high-end restaurants. Indeed, 90–95% of their foie gras stayed within Minnesota, where many top chefs prized it on their menus16. They partnered with a local gourmet distributor (Great Ciao in Minneapolis) to supply Minnesota restaurants with fresh foie gras and duck meat16. This local focus was partly by design (ensuring freshness and manageable logistics) and partly due to limited supply. Nevertheless, Au Bon Canard gained a national reputation among chefs**. It was known “all over the country” for exceptional quality birds, even though the farm itself primarily sold to regional restaurants17. Chefs from as far as New York and California became aware of its foie gras through word-of-mouth and culinary circles. In recent years, especially following the ownership transition, Au Bon Canard has started to expand access beyond restaurants. For the first time, the farm began offering direct sales to individual customers, not just professional chefs18. This means food connoisseurs can order foie gras or duck meat from the farm (for example, via their website or special orders) instead of only encountering it at restaurants. This shift was accelerated by necessity during the COVID-19 pandemic: when restaurant shutdowns in 2020 halted orders, one loyal client (Meritage, a French restaurant in St. Paul) coordinated a curbside sale of Au Bon Canard’s ducks and foie gras directly to local consumers to “help keep the farm afloat,” with all proceeds going to the farm1920. Such efforts helped the farm survive a difficult period and highlighted the community support for this artisanal producer. Today, under Troy’s management, Au Bon Canard continues to serve fine-dining restaurants (especially in the Midwest) and sells to the public (through an online shop and on-farm pickup), all while maintaining the same traditional techniques and high quality standards2118.

Founders & Ownership: Founded by Christian & Liz Gasset (husband-and-wife) in 20041. As of 2023, owned and run by Troy and Katie (family friends/neighbors mentored by the Gassets), continuing it as a family farm22. Location: Caledonia, Minnesota – in the Driftless Region (southeastern MN), on a small farm amidst rolling hills23. Operation Size: ~2,000 ducks processed per year for foie gras (circa 2009)5. Artisanal scale – essentially one small flock at a time. Two-person core workforce for many years6, with only occasional extra help. Production Method: Pasture-raised Moulard ducks; no hormones or antibiotics10. Ducks live outdoors for ~12–14 weeks; final 2-3 weeks in a barn for hand-feeding (gavage by the farmer’s own hand)1124. On-site USDA-inspected processing, allowing humane slaughter and immediate farm processing in small batches13. Emphasis on low stress and traditional French techniques. Product Range: Foie gras (whole lobes, grade A & B), prepared foie gras products (torchons, pâté/mousse), duck breasts (magrets), legs (for confit), duck fat, and other duck offal. Essentially uses the whole duck. Customers & Distribution: Historically 90%+ to restaurants (e.g. fine dining in Minneapolis/St. Paul and surrounding region) via local distributor16. Chefs have celebrated its quality, calling it perhaps the best foie gras in the country14. Now also sells direct to individuals (farmers’ market-style sales and online orders) – opening up this gourmet product to home cooks18. Shipping is available within certain areas, and the farm caters to Midwest chefs and gourmet consumers. Financials: As a small family business, profit margins are slim. Took ~4 years to become profitable7. The focus is on sustaining the farm and craft rather than high growth. The farm was vulnerable to industry downturns (e.g., needed help during COVID)19, but its strong reputation has earned loyal supporters. Notable: Au Bon Canard has been one of only a few foie gras farms in the U.S. (often cited as one of 3–4 producers nationally)5. It stands out for winning blind taste tests due to its flavor, attributed to the artisanal care and lack of stress on the ducks14. It has an “open-door” policy – welcoming farm visits from chefs and the public, to demonstrate transparency in how foie gras can be made humanely25.

Backwater Foie Gras is a newer entrant, a pasture-based family farm in Bush, Louisiana (a rural area about an hour north of New Orleans)26. It was founded in 2019 by Ross McKnight, together with his wife Dorothy and his parents (Dan and Julie McKnight)2728. The idea grew out of Ross’s fascination with traditional foods and self-sufficient farming: notably, Ross was inspired by friends from France (Laurent and Maïlys) who introduced him to foie gras, and he became determined to prove it could be produced ethically on a small scale in Louisiana2928. After some successful backyard trials (Ross even managed to fatten a few Muscovy drakes for foie gras on a ¾-acre suburban lot, which “produced some very fine foie gras” and convinced him of the possibilities30), the McKnights purchased a small farm property in late 2019 to turn this dream into reality. The name “Backwater Foie Gras” itself is a tongue-in-cheek reference to their local roots – Ross named the company after a Walker Percy description of his hometown (Covington, LA) as a “backwater,” embracing a humble, rural identity in contrast to foie gras’s fancy image31. Who Runs It: Backwater is very much a family affair, spanning multiple generations. Ross (a former teacher turned finance professional) is the primary farmer, but his parents (Dan & Julie) are co-founders and daily participants, and his wife Dorothy is also deeply involved28. (The McKnights even have young children – Ross and Dorothy are raising five kids on the farm – so in a sense the farmstead involves three generations, though the children are still little.) The family tends to ducks as well as other farm animals (they keep a milk cow, pigs, and chickens as part of a broader homestead)32. No outside employees are on staff; Backwater operates with the labor of the family. This close-knit crew handles everything from feeding and butchering ducks to selling at markets. Their passion is also tied to their cultural and religious values – the McKnights are devout Catholics and see their farming as part of a stewardship of creation and traditional living (a fact that has both attracted like-minded supporters and, as noted later, stirred a bit of controversy on social media in 2023). Scale & Growth: Backwater Foie Gras remains extremely small-scale. In the very beginning, Ross started with just a few dozen ducks in his backyard (at one point nearly 90 ducks were being raised on their suburban lot during trials)33. After moving to the farm, they have expanded, but only modestly. The farm raises ducks in small batches – for example, they might raise on the order of dozens of ducks at a time, not thousands. While exact figures aren’t publicly stated, one can infer the annual output is likely in the low hundreds of ducks per year (enough to supply a few farmers market customers and local chefs). Backwater also operates on a seasonal production cycle: Foie gras is not made year-round in the Louisiana heat. Instead, they typically fatten ducks for foie gras in the cooler months (fall/winter) and pause foie gras production during the hottest part of summer (when forcing ducks to eat more could be stressful or unhealthy)34. During those off-season months, the farm “bridges the gap” by selling other poultry products – for instance, raising chickens or non-gavage ducks for meat, to keep income flowing34. This seasonal approach means Backwater’s foie gras output is limited and specialty – a far cry from continuous industrial production. Farming Practices: As a pasture-based farm, Backwater’s ethos is to mimic natural processes as much as possible and treat the animals with respect. They primarily raise Muscovy ducks (a duck breed that, in the wild, can develop a fatty liver seasonally) and possibly some hybrids. From day one, the ducks are brooded and then put onto rotational pasture as soon as they’re old enough. Ross uses mobile pen enclosures and rotating electric mesh fences to allow the ducks to forage on fresh grass and insects, moving them regularly to prevent land overuse35. The ducks live outdoors for the majority of their lifespan, enjoying a diet of grass, bugs, and supplemental grains. Pasture-raised ducks at Backwater Foie Gras in Louisiana. Backwater raises its ducks outdoors on grass with movable fencing and simple shelters, as shown above. This pasture-based system allows the birds to forage and exercise freely, in contrast to the confined barns typical of large foie gras operations. Only in the final two weeks or so are Backwater’s ducks brought into feeding pens for the gavage (hand-feeding) phase36. During that fattening period (about Week 13–15 of the ducks’ life), Ross individually hand-feeds each duck a precise measure of corn feed by hand, twice a day, to gently enlarge the liver36. The farm even implements a “pré-gavage” step while the ducks are still on pasture – giving them scheduled high-calorie meals so they start self-gorging a bit, which stretches their crops and prepares them for the hand-feeding period37. All of this is done to minimize shock and stress to the animals. As Ross describes, they are “creating something beautiful in cooperation with the natural abilities of these amazing waterfowl,” rather than simply force-feeding in an industrial manner38. This artisanal approach has been a “game changer” for many people who doubted foie gras could be produced humanely – seeing the ducks roaming outside and healthy has changed minds in the local community38. The end result is a foie gras product from Backwater that Ross and his family can proudly say is made with respect for the animal. They are transparent about their process: they often invite customers to visit the farm and see for themselves “what it means to humanely raise foie gras”39. Just as Au Bon Canard did in Minnesota, Backwater has an open-door attitude, using education (they even offer on-farm classes like a workshop called “The Art of Foie Gras” to demonstrate the technique40) to demystify foie gras production. Products and Sales: Backwater markets not only foie gras itself but a variety of duck products and farm goods. At local farmers markets, Ross’s stand typically offers items such as foie gras lobes, prepared foie gras pâté or mousse, duck rillettes (a type of spreadable confit), duck leg confit, and magret séché (cured duck breast akin to prosciutto)41. In addition, they sell fresh/frozen duck parts (breasts, leg quarters, whole ducks when available) and other poultry. For instance, Backwater raises chickens for meat and eggs, and sells those, especially when foie gras production is off-season42. The farm’s branding is “Foie Gras & Farmstead” because they also incorporate other farmstead products – they even have a woodworking side business (Ross handcrafts wooden cutting boards, furniture, etc., which they sell online) and a general homesteading model to diversify income4332. When it comes to selling foie gras and duck products, Backwater relies on direct-to-customer channels. Primarily, Ross sells at farmers markets on the Northshore and in New Orleans. He is a regular at the Covington Farmers Market on Saturdays and the Crescent City Farmers Market (New Orleans) on Thursdays4445. Customers at these markets can buy foie gras and charcuterie directly from him. The farm also takes online orders through their website (they have an online store where customers can reserve products when in stock). Given their limited output, Backwater’s foie gras is something local chefs and foodies seek out in small quantities. A few New Orleans area restaurants had started to feature Backwater’s foie gras on their menus – a proud moment for the McKnights (“The first time we saw Backwater Foie Gras called by name on a menu, it blew us away,” Ross recalled46). However, the farm does not have national distribution; they do not use large distributors. Any restaurant sourcing Backwater’s product does so directly from the farm. This independence allows Backwater to stay true to its values, but it also means their market is somewhat niche and localized. A noteworthy episode in 2023 highlighted both the fragility and community support of Backwater’s business. In June 2023, Ross posted a religious message on the farm’s social media (expressing his Catholic perspective over Pride Month), which led to controversy. In response, two of Backwater’s largest restaurant clients (summer-season accounts) canceled their orders in protest47. This represented a loss of about $6,000 in monthly revenue for the farm during the summer – a significant hit for such a small operation34. That revenue had been coming from supplying those restaurants with duck meat and other products in foie gras off-season. The sudden loss threatened Backwater’s finances. However, what followed was a rally of support from others: many Catholic and local supporters stepped up, buying more products directly and donating to the farm, effectively replacing the lost income48. This incident underscores that Backwater’s scale is modest (a few contracts can make or break a month) and that it leans on a community of patrons who value the farm’s family and ethical stance. As of late 2023, Backwater continues to operate, focusing on individual customers, farmers market sales, and occasional restaurant collaborations that align with their values.

Founders & Family: Founded in 2019 by Ross McKnight along with his parents, Dan & Julie27. Ross (early 30s) and his wife Dorothy are the primary operators, with help from his parents – a three-generation family farm3949. Location: Bush, Louisiana – a rural farm about 60 miles north of New Orleans (north of Lake Pontchartrain)26. The farm property is a multi-use homestead, not solely a foie gras facility. Operation Size: Very small output. Batches of ducks are raised seasonally; total foie gras ducks per year likely in the low hundreds (versus thousands at bigger farms). For example, early on Ross raised ~90 ducks in his backyard trial33; now on the farm the capacity has grown a bit, but it remains limited. Seasonal production – foie gras made in cooler months, paused in summer34. The farm also raises chickens, geese, etc., on a small scale. Production Method: Pasture-raised, free-range ducks with a focus on humane treatment. Ducks (mostly Muscovy breed) forage outdoors for ~12 weeks. Implements rotational grazing (moving fences/shelters so ducks always have fresh pasture)35. Uses a pré-gavage period to acclimate ducks to bigger meals, then a short hand-feeding (gavage) period of ~14 days where each duck is fed individually by hand twice daily36. The gavage is done in open pens with straw bedding (not cages) and is closely monitored for duck health. This method mimics the natural fattening before migration and avoids undue stress5051. Slaughter and processing are done on a very small scale, often on-farm or with local butchering facilities, to ensure quality control. Product Range: Foie gras lobes (fresh) when in season; foie gras value-added products like paté, mousse, torchon (sometimes sold for those who want ready-to-eat preparations); duck charcuterie such as rillettes and confit; cured duck breast (magret sec/smoked breast). Also sells duck cuts (breasts, legs, whole ducks) and other farm meats (chicken, pork from their pigs, etc.). Eggs, broth, and related products occasionally. Essentially, Backwater tries to utilize each animal fully and also diversify with other farm products to sustain the business. Customers & Distribution: Local direct sales model. Regular vendor at Covington and New Orleans farmers markets4445 – where foodies can buy directly. Supplies a handful of New Orleans-area restaurants (typically chef-owned bistros interested in local foie gras). No broad distribution – restaurants order straight from Ross (e.g., via text/phone). The farm has an online store for local pickup orders (and sometimes ships within Louisiana). Community-supported: much of customer base is word-of-mouth and loyal supporters. For instance, Louisiana food media (podcasts, articles) have featured Backwater to raise awareness that “Foie gras from Louisiana” is now a thing52. The farm’s presence at markets aims to make foie gras approachable and educate the public. Financials: As a start-up farm, revenue is modest. They rely on multiple small revenue streams (market sales, classes, woodworking, etc.). An estimated $6k/month loss from canceled contracts in 2023 was painful34, implying annual revenues likely in the low five figures from foie gras/duck sales (prior to growth). However, low overhead (family labor, on-farm feed sources) helps. The operation likely isn’t highly profitable yet – it’s driven by passion and belief in “building a tradition” of foie gras in Louisiana. The family has shown resilience, with supportive customers stepping in to keep them afloat during challenges48. Ross has also explored creative structures like forming a Private Membership Association (PMA) to sell products directly to members, insulating the farm from certain regulations and fostering a community around their foods5354. Notable: Backwater is the only foie gras farm in the U.S. Deep South. It aims to “make foie gras more accessible” in Louisiana by selling at familiar venues like farmers markets and demystifying the process52. They integrate philosophy with farming – for example, they sometimes host farm dinners or classes to teach others about humane poultry raising and even butchery (offering classes in chicken harvesting, pig butchery, etc., on the farm)40. Their story has garnered interest beyond food circles due to the blend of tradition, religion, and controversy – but at its core, Backwater is simply a family farm striving to do something rare in the USA: produce foie gras on a small, pasture-based scale.

To highlight the similarities and differences between Au Bon Canard (ABC) and Backwater Foie Gras (BW), the table below compares key aspects of their operations: Aspect Au Bon Canard (MN) Backwater Foie Gras (LA) Location Caledonia, Minnesota (Driftless region of SE MN; farm lies in rolling hill country) Bush, Louisiana (rural St. Tammany Parish, about 1 hour north of New Orleans)26 Founding Founded ~2004 by Christian & Liz Gasset1. Christian is a French-native who brought Old World foie gras methods to MN. Operated ~20 years under the Gassets. In mid-2023, the Gassets retired to France and passed the farm to new owners (Troy & Katie, a neighboring farm family)2 – who continue the business in the same spirit. Established in 2019 by Ross McKnight (and his parents)27 after initial backyard trials. Ross left a prior career to farm. The name “Backwater” reflects local pride. The farm was formed to revive sustainable, pre-industrial foie gras production in Louisiana, inspired by French tradition39. Family-run since inception. Scale of Production ~2,000 ducks per year (artisanal scale)5. This is a tiny output, focusing on small batches to ensure quality. By comparison, large producers process tens of thousands of ducks. ABC deliberately limits production; Christian felt expanding would sacrifice quality and didn’t want the complexity of a bigger operation4. Extremely small-batch and seasonal. BW might raise only dozens of ducks at a time; total output likely a few hundred ducks/year (much smaller than ABC). They produce foie gras in discrete seasons (cool months) and do not force year-round output34. Scale is constrained by family labor and farm capacity – truly a niche production. Workforce Initially a two-person team (Christian and Liz) for all tasks6. No regular employees; only occasional helpers for slaughter days. This kept things personal and manageable. Under new ownership, it remains a family-run farm (Troy, Katie, and family handle operations) and still very small in staff. Entirely family-operated. Ross, his wife Dorothy, and his parents share the farm work28. No hired farmhands. It’s effectively a three-generation homestead where everyone pitches in49. Labor-intensive tasks (feeding, processing) are done by family members, limiting scale but ensuring hands-on care. Farming Methods Pasture-raised Moulard ducks (Muscovy–Pekin cross)9. Ducks live mostly outdoors with ample space and natural forage. Follow a seasonal rhythm (not cramming continuous cycles). In the finishing phase, ducks are brought in small groups into a barn and gently hand-fed (gavage) by the farmer – focusing on keeping them calm and well-treated11. The farm has an on-site USDA-inspected processing plant for humane, quick processing in small batches13. Everything is done by traditional French artisanal methods (e.g. hand-feeding, not automated) refined by Christian’s training in France5556. Pasture-based husbandry of primarily Muscovy ducks. Ducklings brood indoors for ~3 weeks, then move to rotational grazing paddocks until ~12 weeks35. Uses a “pré-gavage” period on pasture to encourage the ducks to naturally eat more on their own schedule. From ~Week 13–15, ducks go into open-air feeding stalls for individual hand-feeding (twice a day) to safely fatten the liver36. Emphasizes humane mimicry of natural fat accumulation (ducks are healthy and active up until harvest). The process is highly manual and attentive – essentially slow food foie gras. Products Foie gras (whole duck liver lobes) – a premium artisanal delicacy. Also produces duck meat products: magret (breast), legs (for confit), wings, duck fat, giblets, etc. The farm sells whole ducks and portions. Initially, foie gras was the flagship product (sold to chefs), but now they also package duck cuts for retail. They have offered value-added items like pâté or torchon occasionally, but much of their foie gras went to chefs who handle the preparation. Foie gras lobes (fresh or flash-frozen) and an array of duck specialties. Backwater often sells foie gras pâté, mousse, rillettes, confit, and cured duck breast at markets41 – making foie gras accessible in ready-to-eat forms. They also sell fresh/frozen duck parts (breasts, leg quarters, whole ducks) and other farm goods (e.g. chicken, eggs, even pork from their pigs). The product mix is tailored to farmers market customers (small packages, charcuterie, etc.). Market/Distribution Historically, ~90–95% of output sold to Minnesota restaurants (fine-dining) via a local distributor (Great Ciao)16. Chefs in MSP and the Upper Midwest were the main clients, though the foie gras earned national repute in culinary circles. In recent years, ABC began selling direct to consumers as well – through on-farm sales and a mail-order/online system18. This was partly spurred by COVID-19 disruptions and the new owners’ initiative to reach foie gras enthusiasts beyond restaurants. Even so, volume is limited, and many customers still encounter Au Bon Canard foie gras at restaurants (some chefs explicitly cite it on menus due to its prestige). Direct-to-customer focus. Backwater sells at local farmers markets (e.g., Covington, New Orleans) and takes orders via its website for pickup or limited shipping. A few local restaurants have used Backwater’s foie gras (especially before mid-2023), but the farm has no broad wholesale network. Notably, in 2023 two restaurant clients cut ties after a values controversy, costing ~$6k/month in sales34 – a big impact, highlighting how small their client base was. In response, the farm doubled down on community support: individual customers (many from the local Catholic community) stepped up purchases to support Backwater48. Overall, Backwater’s business relies on farmers market patrons, online direct sales, and a small loyal following rather than large-scale distribution. Revenue & Viability As a boutique farm, revenues are modest – essentially a small family livelihood. The farm only became profitable after ~4 years of operation7 and remains focused on sustainability over high profits. Christian Gasset was content making a living doing what he loved (“never going to be rich… happy with my lifestyle”8). The farm’s expenses are controlled by its small scale, but external events (like restaurant closures in 2020) can pose risks. In 2020, loyal restaurant partners like Meritage helped by retailing Au Bon Canard ducks to keep money flowing1920. With diversified sales channels now (restaurant + direct retail), ABC is on firmer footing. However, it’s still a tiny enterprise compared to industrial farms – revenue likely in the low-to-mid six figures annually (not publicly disclosed). The value is in its brand quality, not sheer volume. A very small business economically. Before 2023, Backwater’s restaurant sales plus market sales might have been growing, but losing two contracts (~$18k over a summer) was significant34. This suggests annual revenue could be on the order of only tens of thousands of dollars. Ross has supplemented income with farm workshops and even a woodworking craft business43 – indicating that foie gras alone isn’t a gold mine at this scale. The farm’s viability hinges on passion and community: they’ve cultivated a niche of customers who value ethical foie gras. Post-controversy, supporters donated and increased orders, which helped stabilize finances48. Long-term, Backwater’s goal is likely to expand its customer base enough to be consistently sustainable, but it will remain a niche artisanal operation by choice. Differentiators Award-Winning Quality: Chefs and food writers often note that Au Bon Canard’s foie gras is exceptionally tasty, attributed to the stress-free raising and fresh processing14. Legacy & Expertise: Christian Gasset had decades of foie gras know-how from France and built one of America’s only artisanal foie gras farms from scratch. Local Terroir: Being in Minnesota’s cooler climate and using local corn feed gives its foie gras a unique profile. Consistency: Through a stable 20-year operation, ABC achieved very consistent quality that earned trust among top chefs. Local First: Backwater is the first foie gras farm in Louisiana, introducing this product to the local food culture. Transparency & Engagement: The farm actively educates consumers (through farm tours, workshops) in a way larger farms typically can’t. Cultural Angle: Ross ties foie gras into Louisiana’s heritage of French cuisine and Catholic traditions (foie gras has a rich history in French Catholic regions), creating a narrative that resonates with some local buyers. Innovative Resilience: Using approaches like a membership association, diversified homesteading, and community funding, Backwater is exploring new models for tiny farms. Though very young, it is carving out an identity as perhaps the most philosophically driven foie gras producer in the country.

Both Au Bon Canard and Backwater Foie Gras stand in stark contrast to the large-scale foie gras producers such as Hudson Valley Foie Gras (HVFG) in New York (and the now-closed Sonoma Foie Gras in California, etc.). Here are some key differences: Scale of Production: The most obvious difference is sheer scale. Hudson Valley Foie Gras is essentially an industrial operation, producing on the order of 10,000 ducks per week for foie gras5 – that’s over half a million ducks a year. By comparison, Au Bon Canard processes ~2,000 ducks per year5, and Backwater is even smaller (a few hundred a year at most). The small farms operate at less than 1% of the volume of HVFG. This means the entire approach to farming differs; the big producer uses mass production techniques, whereas the artisanal farms use hands-on techniques suitable only for tiny flock sizes. Workforce and Farm Structure: At HVFG (and similar large farms like La Belle Farm in NY), there are dozens of employees, specialized feeding crews, large barns, and a division of labor to handle thousands of birds on continuous cycles. In contrast, Au Bon Canard was literally a husband-and-wife team doing everything from feeding ducks to delivering products6. Backwater is run by one family with no outside staff. There’s an intimacy to the small farms – the same people feed and care for the animals daily – which is impossible to replicate in an industrial setting. The small farms also have the farmers themselves deeply involved in every step (Christian or Ross personally hand-feeding each bird), whereas a place like HVFG, while it may still use hand-feeding, does so with hired workers on a much larger group of ducks. Animal Husbandry & Welfare: Both Au Bon Canard and Backwater emphasize humane treatment and low-stress environments for their ducks5738. Their ducks live outdoors on pasture for most of their life, exhibiting natural behaviors (swimming in ponds/mud, foraging, etc.). When gavage begins, it’s for a limited period and under close supervision, often with the same caretaker the ducks are used to. In big operations like HVFG, ducks are typically kept in climate-controlled barns or enclosed housing for biosecurity and efficiency. The feeding is done at scale – sometimes with mechanical augers or multiple feeders moving down rows of ducks. While the fundamental act of gavage (using a tube to feed corn mash) is the same, the context differs: industrial gavage might involve hundreds of ducks being fed in a session, often in confined pens or cages (HVFG reportedly moved to group pens from individual cages after criticism, but it’s still an indoor group setting). Stress levels can be higher in large settings simply due to scale (more noise, more competition, less personal familiarity with handlers). The small farms argue that their methods avoid these stressors – for example, Christian Gasset knocked on the barn door and spoke softly to his ducks before feeding them, to avoid startling them11. In essence, artisanal producers try to replicate a farmstead, natural approach, whereas large producers run more like a poultry factory (albeit a specialized one). Feeding Techniques: Both small and large farms practice gavage (force-feeding) because it’s required to produce true foie gras. However, hand-feeding techniques vs. mechanization differ. Au Bon Canard and Backwater hand-feed each duck one by one with a tube and have only dozens of ducks to feed at a time, making it a careful ritual. Hudson Valley, at its scale, must feed thousands of ducks daily – this often means teams of feeders working quickly. There have been reports of more mechanized or high-speed methods in big farms to cover numbers (though HVFG has maintained that their workers hand-feed and that the ducks are not mistreated). The small farms can tailor feeding to each bird’s condition, whereas big farms more or less have to treat ducks uniformly. The result touted by small farms is a more controlled fattening that avoids overfeeding any duck to the point of illness (any duck not thriving can be pulled from the process). In larger operations, critics claim the uniform feeding can occasionally result in some ducks being over-stressed or injured. Small farms often go slower and potentially use a shorter gavage duration (e.g., 14–18 days) versus some industrial regimes that might go ~21 days, though specifics vary. Product Quality: Many chefs believe that foie gras from small farms like Au Bon Canard has superior flavor and texture. As noted earlier, Au Bon Canard’s foie gras won taste tests, with chefs noting it rendered less fat and had a cleaner, nuttier flavor14. This can be attributed to the ducks being healthier and less stressed, as well as processing being immediate (ducks are slaughtered on-site and livers processed fresh). Hudson Valley’s foie gras is still high quality (it’s the product that enabled many American restaurants to serve foie at all), but it’s often harvested and shipped in larger batches, possibly stored or frozen more often, and the ducks might carry a bit more stress fat. In short, artisanal foie gras is often described as having a more delicate, “clean” taste, whereas industrial foie gras can be slightly more uniform and sometimes fattier. However, it should be noted that HVFG’s product set the standard in the US for decades, and differences can be subtle – but to connoisseurs and chefs, they matter. Market and Distribution: Hudson Valley Foie Gras (and La Belle Farm) supply a huge network: not only top restaurants across the US, but also international markets, gourmet retailers, and through distributors. They have the volume to fulfill large orders and maintain year-round availability. In contrast, Au Bon Canard for years limited sales to Minnesota and a few regional outlets16 – chefs out of state could only get it if they knew someone or during special events. Backwater is hyper-local in distribution. This means Hudson Valley dominates the national foie gras market, while farms like ABC and Backwater serve local or regional niche markets. If one were a restaurant in, say, California looking for foie gras in 2018, the likely sources would be Hudson Valley or imports from France, since Au Bon Canard wasn’t distributing there. The small farms simply don’t have enough product to enter broad commerce. They tend to sell out their foie gras to a small circle of clients who eagerly await it. As a result, the big producers operate as regular businesses (with marketing, sales reps, trade show presence, etc.), whereas the small producers operate almost like underground artisans – working with a tight-knit community of chefs/foodies. Business Model and Philosophy: Both Au Bon Canard and Backwater openly position themselves in opposition to “factory farming” practices. They highlight sustainability, tradition, and ethics in their messaging5658. For example, Au Bon Canard’s website stresses respecting birds and land, and Backwater talks about “return to natural, pre-industrial farming”39. This ethos attracts customers who might otherwise be uneasy about foie gras. Hudson Valley, on the other hand, while certainly concerned with animal care (to maintain product quality and comply with regulations), has often been at the center of animal welfare debates. HVFG’s founders have defended foie gras as humane, but activists have targeted them, leading to legal battles (e.g., California’s ban, NYC’s attempted ban on sales). The small farms largely flew under the radar of activists (in part due to their scale and arguably more animal-friendly approach). In fact, in Minnesota, when animal rights groups campaigned against foie gras around 2013, local chefs rallied in support of Au Bon Canard, highlighting that their foie gras was not factory-like and that the Gassets cared for their ducks with integrity5960. This kind of public defense is something Hudson Valley struggled with, as videos from large farms (often taken covertly by activists) did show scenes that the general public found troubling (like ducks in rows of pens being quickly fed by a worker with a pneumatic feeder). In summary, the optics and philosophy differ: small farms present foie gras as a labor of love and a preservation of a ancient culinary art, whereas big producers are viewed (by both supporters and detractors) as a commercial foie gras industry. Economic Outcomes: A large operation like Hudson Valley is a multi-million dollar business that was co-founded by a chef (Marcus Henley, Izzy Yanay, etc.) and grew to dominate the US market – it could afford lobbying, legal fights, and large-scale innovation (they even ran their own hatchery, breeding, R&D, etc.). The small farms operate on a shoestring by comparison. Au Bon Canard’s entire annual profit might equal what Hudson Valley made in a few days of operation. Backwater is currently more of a subsistence farm in terms of profit. This also means the stakes are different: for HVFG, foie gras is big business; for the small farms, foie gras is as much a calling or lifestyle as it is a business. Profitability is secondary to them (as evidenced by Christian’s quote about being happy even if not getting rich8). The small producers can adapt by staying tiny (Backwater can survive with help from community if needed, as we saw), whereas Hudson Valley has to contend with legislation and large fixed costs – for instance, if a major city bans foie gras, HVFG loses significant sales, but it doesn’t really affect Au Bon Canard or Backwater who have minimal presence there. So the risk exposure is different: big producers face regulatory and public-relations battles; small producers quietly serve willing patrons under the radar. In conclusion, Au Bon Canard and Backwater Foie Gras exemplify the artisanal side of foie gras production, proving that it’s possible to produce this traditional delicacy on a small family farm with great attention to animal welfare. They differ in history and scale (one being a 20-year veteran in the Midwest, the other a recent start-up in the South), but both share a commitment to quality over quantity. Their operations are dramatically different from a giant like Hudson Valley Foie Gras – from how the ducks are raised, to who does the work, to who buys the product. This results in some of the highest-quality foie gras available, with a story and ethos that appeal to farm-to-table enthusiasts. At the same time, their tiny scale means they complement rather than replace the larger producers; Hudson Valley and similar farms still supply the bulk of foie gras in America, but farms like Au Bon Canard and Backwater cater to a growing demand for ethical, local alternatives. Each farm has carved out its niche: Au Bon Canard is often cited as America’s finest foie gras farm in chef circles, and Backwater is forging a new path in a region previously untouched by foie gras production. Together, they highlight the diversity within this controversial industry – from the classic large Hudson Valley model to the little family farms – and provide fascinating case studies for how agricultural traditions can be adapted and sustained in modern times.

Heavy Table (Dec 2009) – Alyssa Vance, “The Ducks of Au Bon Canard in Caledonia.” Heavy Table magazine54. (Profile of Au Bon Canard’s farm practices and scale, including quotes from Christian Gasset.) Au Bon Canard – Official Site – “Our History and Philosophy” and “Press” pages551. (Background on the founding by Christian & Liz Gasset, farm philosophy, and timeline through 2023 ownership change.) Mpls.St.Paul Magazine (Apr 2020) – Stephanie March, “Meritage Supports ABC Duck Farm”1715. (Article on how a local restaurant helped Au Bon Canard during COVID-19; includes info on Au Bon Canard’s restaurant-centric sales and reputation.) Crescent City Farmers Market (July 2021) – Market Umbrella Newsletter, “Vendor of the Week: Backwater Foie Gras”3949. (Brief profile of Backwater Foie Gras for farmers market patrons, describing its founding, three-generation family, and pasture-raised approach.) Louisiana Eats (WWNO) – Poppy Tooker (Oct 2022) – “St. Tammany Taste Quick Bite: Backwater Foie Gras”5128. (Public radio segment blog highlighting Ross McKnight’s foie gras operation, including notes on family involvement and humane feeding, with input from the McKnight family and their French friends.) OSV News/Diocese of Tucson (June 2023) – Maria Wiering, “Louisiana farmer’s promotion of Sacred Heart over Pride Month costs business, rallies fellow Catholics”3448. (News article detailing the fallout from Backwater’s social media post, loss of restaurant contracts (~$6k/month) and subsequent support from the Catholic community; provides context on Backwater’s scale and customer base.) Backwater Foie Gras – Official Site – “Who We Are” and “Our Farming Process” pages2936. (Ross McKnight’s first-person account of starting the farm in 2019, the inspiration behind it, and a step-by-step description of how they raise and feed ducks for foie gras on pasture.) Au Bon Canard – Official Site – Home page and product info1018. (Details on Au Bon Canard’s duck rearing practices – no antibiotics, outdoor life, on-site processing – and the announcement of selling duck products directly to individuals beyond the restaurant trade.) 1 59 60 About 5 — Au Bon Canard https://www.abcfoiegras.com/press 2 3 22 55 56 About — Au Bon Canard https://www.abcfoiegras.com/history 4 5 6 7 8 9 11 12 16 24 25 The Ducks of Au Bon Canard in Caledonia – Heavy Table https://heavytable.com/the-ducks-of-au-bon-canard-in-caledonia/ 10 13 14 18 21 23 57 Au Bon Canard https://www.abcfoiegras.com/ 15 17 19 20 Meritage Supports ABC Duck Farm - Mpls.St.Paul Magazine https://mspmag.com/eat-and-drink/foodie/meritage-supports-abc-duck-farm/ 26 32 40 43 44 53 Backwater Foie Gras, Farmstead, and Workshop https://backwaterfoiegras.com/ 27 29 30 31 Backwater Foie Gras, Farmstead, and Workshop https://backwaterfoiegras.com/who-we-are 28 50 51 St. Tammany Taste Quick Bites: Backwater Foie Gras - Poppy Tooker https://www.poppytooker.com/this-weeks-show/2022/10/6/st-tammany-taste-quick-bite-backwater-foie-gras 33 41 46 Foie Gras from Louisiana? Yes, It's a thing. - Biz New Orleans https://bizneworleans.com/foie-gras-from-louisiana-yes-its-a-thing/ 34 42 47 48 Home | New Outlook - Louisiana farmer promotion of Sacred Heart over Pride Month costs business, rallies fellow Catholics https://news.diocesetucson.org/news/louisiana-farmer-promotion-of-sacred-heart-over-pride-month-costs-business-rallies-fellow-catholics 35 36 37 Backwater Foie Gras, Farmstead, and Workshop https://backwaterfoiegras.com/farmingprocess 38 39 45 49 58 Market Morsel | Market Umbrella | Crescent City Farmers Market https://crescentcityfarmersmarket.org/news/578/88/July-5-2021 52 Backwater Foie Gras — Louisiana Eats - Poppy Tooker https://www.poppytooker.com/this-weeks-show/tag/Backwater+Foie+Gras 54 Ross McKnight on The Backwater Agrarian PMA - YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHoE7y5CEfY